Dec 24 - "In the Beginning..."

Link to the First Day

Safely home, we gathered around the television to watch the news and listen to the broadcast of the Apollo 8 astronauts. To me, their was never a doubt that we would accomplish President Kennedy's goal. The long string of Mercury and Apollo launches during my formative years inspired me to want to follow in the paths of the astronauts and to be an adventurer. My trip to Europe was just the first step for me in that quest.

On this day, Christmas Eve of 1968, the three astronauts of Apollo 8 read the first 10 verses of the book of Genesis, as they orbited the moon for the first time in human history.

William Anders

"We are now approaching lunar sunrise and, for all the people back on Earth, the crew of Apollo 8 has a message that we would like to send to you.

In the beginning God created the heaven and the earth.
And the earth was without form, and void; and darkness was upon the face of the deep.
And the Spirit of God moved upon the face of the waters. And God said, Let there be light: and there was light.
And God saw the light, that it was good: and God divided the light from the darkness.

Jim Lovell

"And God called the light Day, and the darkness he called Night. And the evening and the morning were the first day.
And God said, Let there be a firmament in the midst of the waters, and let it divide the waters from the waters.
And God made the firmament, and divided the waters which were under the firmament from the waters which were above the firmament: and it was so.
And God called the firmament Heaven. And the evening and the morning were the second day.

Frank Borman

"And God said, Let the waters under the heavens be gathered together unto one place, and let the dry land appear: and it was so.
And God called the dry land Earth; and the gathering together of the waters called he Seas: and God saw that it was good.

And from the crew of Apollo 8, we close with good night, good luck, a Merry Christmas – and God bless all of you, all of you on the good Earth."

Dec 22 - Home at Last

Flew into Lawton, Oklahoma, from Love Field in Dallas. All the family was there to welcome me home. Everyone looked bigger. I must have looked a lot skinnier. It was great to be home with lots of stories to share.

Dec 21 - Dallas, Texas

Slept late. The morning plane was held back by bad weather. I spent the day watching television (in English, what a treat!), and playing with my cousin's guitar, organ and piano. The Cavnar's are a very musically talented family.

Dec 20 - Dallas Texas

Got away to Atlanta at 4 am, only to find no room on the flight I had planned to take. After a boring three hour wait in Atlanta, I got on a Los Angeles-bound Delta flight to New Orleans and Dallas. Had a 20 minute stop in New Orleans at 8 am, on to Dallas arriving at 10:30 am. My Aunt Margaret Cavnar picked me up at 11:30. Went home. My cousins Nick and Dick arrived and we had a real American hot dog lunch. Still not a "Z" of sleep since waking in Luxembourg. Got reservations on a Frontier flight to Lawton for tomorrow. Visited with my Scoutmaster Lon Sailers, the one who led us all to Sweden in August. Picked up Jim at midnight at Love Field and got to bed at 1 am.

Dec 19 - In the Air

Well tomorrow night just never came. The day went on and on and I put in what was for me the longest day. I arose at 8 am, packed and set out in a wet slushy snow for the airport of Luxembourg, about four miles out of town. I met two boys from Miami and while we waited for the baggage check to open we talked about our experiences in Europe. [I flew on the new discount airline Air Bahama, which operated DC-8s between Luxembourg, Shannon, Iceland, and Nassau. ] After a long wait, the airplane took off at 1 pm. An American girl from Miami studying in Switzerland sat with me on the return trip. We read each other's diaries, and so I got to know a good deal about her. We had a 45 minute refueling stop at Shannon, Ireland, then we were off from Europe. It's a strange but old country, the USA. We arrived after a 12 hour uneventful flight into Nassau at 6:30 pm local. I was late for my connection but got on another one at 8:30. Got through customs okay and were soon off to America on Pan Am. I arrived in Miami too late to catch my plane, so spent five hours at Miami International airport trying to sleep, but it was impossible.

Got away to Atlanta at 4 am, only to find no room on the flight I had planned to take. After a boring three hour wait in Atlanta, I got on a Los Angeles-bound Delta flight to New Orleans and Dallas. Had a 20 minute stop in New Orleans at 8 am, on to Dallas arriving at 10:30 am. My Aunt Margaret Cavnar picked me up at 11:30. Went home. My cousins Nick and Dick arrived and we had a real American hot dog lunch. Still not a "Z" of sleep since waking in Luxembourg. Got reservations on a Frontier flight to Lawton for tomorrow. Visited with my Scoutmaster Lon Sailers, the one who led us all to Sweden in August. Picked up Jim at midnight at Love Field and got to bed at 1 am.

Carolyn Emerson
1551 Salvatierra Dr
Coral Gables, FL 33134

Chateau Brillantmont
16 Av Secretan
1005 Lausanne
Vaud, Switzerland

Dec 18 - Luxembourg

Awoke at 8 am. Roamed Luxembourg until 2 pm, and went to see the move "The Killer Likes Candy" for 40 cents. Then I picked up the receipt for my suitcases at the Boy Scout Office, got the suitcases at customs, and started to repack in front of the luggage lockers in the station. As I started throwing things out I couldn't take, the bums started closing in on me to take what I didn't want. I retreated to my hotel room, carrying my luggage up four flights of stairs. Repacked and eliminated many things. I took the suitcase to weigh it. It came in at 16 kg and the bike weighs 16 km, so I may be a few kgs over the limit. Packed about six kg of books and paper into the flightbag, which I hope won't be weighed. Tonight is the last in Europe. Tomorrow night I'll be in Dallas.

Hotel $2.40
Movie .40
Snacks .50

Dec 17 - Luxembourg

Slept late again. Breakfast and went to Attillio's to have my clothes washed and read his [Boy Scout Magazine] Boy's Life which I hadn't seen. Had lunch with six of the family members. Went to the Scout hut with Marc's brother, Attillio's brother and a friend, all age 13, then to a bar for a beer and some billiards. Marc joined us later. I played him, then we returned home.

I realized that I should be in Luxembourg tonight, so I hastily packed, ate, said goodbye to all, and was driven to Hasselt by Marc and his Dad, Gustaaf and friend. They saw me off at 6:28 pm. The ensuing two changes of train, in Leuven and Brussels were ones to remember. Arrived In Luxembourg at 11 am, with a heavy snow falling. Checked into a real nice $2.40 hotel room across from the Gare [train station].

Train $8.00
Hotel $2.40

Dec 16 - Genk, Belgium

Slept late and had breakfast of bread and butter, salami, cheese and coffee. Went to Marc's house next door for lunch. His brother is 13 and aspires to attend the Scout Jamboree in Japan in 1971. I showed the family my patches, souvenirs and uniform. About 3 pm, Marc, his brother, father and I drove into Mastricht, Holland. We parked the car and strolled through the festive shopping area, listening to an old fashioned traveling mechanical band and eating ice cream.

Returned to Genk after dark in the rain. We stopped at a friend's house so Marc could show off his foreign visitor. Had dinner and an enjoyable evening with Atillio's family of seven youngsters and parents.

Dec 15 - Genk, Belgium

I left Brussels at 9 am, cycling to Leuven. Had some French Fries and waited in the cold for the 12:14 train to arrive. Got to Hasselt 45 minutes later and cycled into Genk 12 km away. I first was directed to Attilio Roncada's house, the scoutmaster of the Belgium Troop at Niagra-on-the-Lake, then went over to Gustoof's house. His mother died several years ago so he lives with his Father and has no brothers or sisters. Afterwards we went down to the youth club at the church and another downtown where I impressed them with my lack of billiard ability. Retired late.

Mileage: 25 m

Gustoof Roncada
Doninikanenlaan 77
Genk, Limburg, Belgium

Dec 14 - Brussels, Belgium

Was awakened early by the adorable (death wish!) two girls but I rolled over and slept until daybreak. After a chilly breakfast in the unheated basement kitchen, Mr Abdellaoui and I jump-started the cold car. Went to pick up a Tunisian friend of his. We went out to the Atomium. We took the grand tour, including coffee in the middle sphere. Went downtown, parked, had coffee in a restaurant.

Took a walk, more coffee, same restaurant. Went to a Morrocan friend's restaurant for a spicy native dish with a beer. Spent two hours there, to another restaurant for more beer and billiards. Returned home at 7 pm. As you can see, of the ten hours in Brussels, nine were in cafes over coffee or beer. If this is the guys way to enjoy his day off (He's a bus driver) I hope indeed he's having fun. After dinner, wrote and retired.

Later entry. While I was eating and watching television the fact struck me coldly and bluntly why he had be acting so unusual all day. The news showed that a giant anti-American, anti-war demonstration was held in Brussels today. He did succeed in keeping me away for it so as not to embarrass me. Now I understand.

Dec 13 - Brussels, Belgium

Slept until 9:30. Had breakfast by myself and left for Brussels. A heavy frost left the earth white and I found out later it had dropped to minus 14 Centigrade. I painfully cycled into Tournai, Belgium and got on the 12:35 train to Brussels Midi Station.

I wandered hopelessly for two hours, looking both for a cheap map or an Audergheml. I didn't find the first but found the second. The family wasn't at home but I was invited next door to wait. Mr and Mrs Abdellaoui arrived at 5 pm. Spicy spaghetti for dinner. Watched television and wrote.

Mileage 15 m

Train $2.80
French Fries .25
Map $1.00

Abdellaoui Mohamed
2 Av Walckiers
Auderghem
Brussels 16, Belgium

Dec 12 - Tourcoing, France

Awoke at first light. At 10 am, packed up and set out. The sun never rose more than 30 degrees in the sky all day from the horizon, crossing over from England the rain clouds cleared and left a sun shining through a cold atmosphere. Both yesterday, today, and tomorrow were real freezers. Each morning a little more white frost would be on everything, making it look like after a snow storm - but no snow. My feet and hands froze numb while cycling. Some orange drink I put in my water bottle froze solid before I could drink it. The intense cold in my hands and feet combined with the heat of my chest and a strong wind and an extra heavy load and hills up and down made cycling most miserable. Arrived in Tourcoing at dusk, 4 pm. Mr Xavier was not in town so his teachers at the University gave me another place to sleep. A castle more closely. After dinner I retired.

Xavier Brouaux
15 Place du Theatre
59 Tourcoing, France

Mileage: 60 km

Dec 11 - Somewhere on the Continent

Mr Voller took me up to Dover at 9 am. Wheeled my loaded-down bike on the ship and was off to the continent at 10 am. Arrived in Boulogne at 11:30. Met a Canadian cyclist on landing. He split south and I east. With no map, I wandered for two hours in the hills. Just as I thought I was really lost I found a bookstore and got a map, and found out I was lost. Three hours later I pitched my tent in a forest near God knows where, either in France or in Belgium, I still don't know. Read by candlelight until no more candle. Slept in full dress.

Mileage: 50 km
Map .30
Ferry 7.50

Dec 10 = Folkestone, England

Awoke at four cracks before dawn (i.e. 7 am). Dismantled the bike to fit in Gwen's car. She let me off at Victoria but I had to cycle a nerve-wracking mile through early morning London traffic to Charing Cross station. Got the 10 am train to Folkestone. Arrived at noon. Bought my Dover-Boulogne ticket and returned to the Vollers. Washed clothes and packed and repacked. Susan and Clair came home first, then Andy. After dinner Clair, Andy and I went down to Lydd for a dance. Andy and some of his cool teenage cousins and I took a ride out on Romney Marsh for a little known pub. I told Andy I didn't want a weak English Lager so he bought me two of England's finest. They did the work of a six-pack of America's finest. Returned to the dance, no girls available. Returned home at 10 pm.

Dec 9 - London, England

Awoke about 9 am. After breakfast Mrs Gough saw me to the bus station. Took the 9:40 train, arriving in London at noon. Bought a 1967 Great Britain coin set at a shop on Regent street. Took the tube out to Victoria and visited the Scout shop on Buckingham Palace Road. A friend of Jim Shepherd gave me some patches and said he'd send me more. Took the tube back to Highgate and Bus 134 to Muswell Hill. Gwen returned home soon thereafter. We watched "the telly" had a good Chinese dinner. To bed at 10 pm.

Dec 8 - Great Yarmouth, England

After breakfast on this Sunday morning, Mr Gough and I walked along the beach several miles, and I piously paid homage to the little village and school where my Aunt Roberta ("Boots") taught school for a year. We took the bus back to Yarmouth town and he showed me where the former home of Boots stood. Bus back home - had lunch and a quiet afternoon of reading and writing. Watched TV until time to dress for the evening. At 7:30 pm Sheila and I took the bus downtown, walked to the tower ballroom. Although there was a large crowd and a good band, there was little dancing, but we danced the little that we could. Had my first "Lime and Lager," a really good drink. Walked along the beach for two miles home as the buses didn't run late. Had some snacks and to bed.

Dec 7 - Great Yarmouth, England

Slept until 9 am. After breakfast, took the tube to Liverpool Street station. Took the 11:30 train to Great Yarmouth. Arrived at 3 pm. Taxi to the Gough's. Had dinner and wrote letters. Michael's away at Manchester studying. Shelia is working in a job employment office. At 8:30 Shelia and I took the bus downtown to the town's youth club. We played a highly competitive game of ping pong and had a Coke. Then we walked through downtown and home by way of the sea. Had tea and retired.

Train round-trip ticket $8.00

John and Nora Gough
51 Blake Rd
Great Yarmouth, Norfolk, England

Dec 6 - London, England

After breakfast I took the tube to South Kensington. Passed an hour in the Baden-Powell House Museum. [Baden-Powell was the founder of the Boy Scouts]. Spent five hours in the Science Museum, an absolute must to return to next trip. Took the tube downtown at 4 pm and walked around the shops until 6 pm. Met Gwen at Picadilly Circus. Had dinner in a restaurant on the South side of the Circus. Went to see the play "Oh Clarence" at a theater. Returned home late.

Dec 5 - London, England

Slept late again. After a self-made lunch I packed up, took the bus to the tube, and rode to Oxford Circus underground. Bought a Churchill Crown coin in the shop on Regent Street. Walked through more of the shops before watching "The Graduate" at the London Pavilion. Returned to Gwen's at 6 pm. Dinner, watched TV and retired.

Churchhill Crown 10 shillings
Tube - Bus 4 Shillings
Movie 7 Shillings Sixpence

Dec 4 - Slough, England

Slept late after that wild night. Wrote letters until 2 pm when John Long picked me up. He and his wife and I drove around Slough, showing me the sights, including Windsor Castle. Had tea at his house. John gave me some scout souvenirs and his wife gave me some stamps for my brother Stephen. John took me back to Jim's house. After dinner, Jim took me to the district's gang show practice to see Rex and John. Scratched a visit to the London airport because of rain and went home to watch television.

John Long
88 London Rd
Slough, Buckinghamshire

Jim Shepherd
165 High Street
Langley, Slough, Buckinghamshire

John Mackrell
16 Coleridge Crescent
Toll House Estate
Colnbrook, Slough, Buckinghamshire

Rex Lee
27 Moreland Ave
Colnbrook, Slough, Buckinghamshire

Brett Mildenhall
Brookfield Cottage
Datchet Road
Horton, Slough, Buckinghamshire

Dec 3 - London, England

After breakfast Gwen took me down to the London University and let me off. I spent the entire morning in the British Museum. A Fine collection of oriental art, printings and paintings. Enormous rooms of Indian relics and historical books. I merely passed through in a hurry. Had lunch with Gwen in the faculty restaurant. In the afternoon I spent three hours in Hawley's, the biggest toy store in London. Only got two out of five gifts I need. Went home at 4:30. After dinner Gwen packed up her gifts and I my luggage, and we went to Slough. Sat around talking for several hours. Brett Mildenhall, a fellow scout dropped in. Jim Shepherd's son, now with a Jim and daughter of his own dropped in for a while. At 10:30 pm, Jim suggested a night trip into Picadilly Circus. Got home and to bed at 2 am.

Jim Shepherd
165 High Street
Langley, Slough, Bucks 42260

Letter to my Uncle Bart Strong written from London Dec 3, 1968

Dear Bart,
Sorry it's been so long. I've been "on the run," you might say, last week in Paris and this week in London.

On November 16th, my birthday, and last day in Switzerland, in Geneva, it snowed on my, so I was forced to take the train up to Paris and on to Boulogne. I stayed five days in Paris, but I could have spent months strolling along the Seine, through the Latin Quarter and the curious back streets of the city.

I took the train and bike up to Boulogne, crossed over to Dover, and cycled down into Folkestone, where I stayed with a Scout I met at the Jamboree. Then I visited another friend in Sussex County, then up to London. I'm now staying with the sister of Gwen Abbot, Boot's English friend. Last night he took me on the grand tour of London by night. At midnight last night I was sitting in the British Parliament's House of Lords, listening to a debate on the budget that lasted until 4 am! We drove through the Christmas-decorated shopping streets of Oxford and Regenet streets and the always gaily-lit Picadilly Circus.

After a week here I cycle back to Brussels and Luxembourg, from where I fly home on the 19th, and I'll be in Lawton on the 22nd. See you in Norman at Christmas.

Mike

Dec 2 - London, England

After breakfast I took Bus 134 from Muswell Hill down into Trafalgar Square. Quite misty when we left but downtown it was better and cleared off after noon. Walked around the West End, looked inside Westminster Abbey, walked down Birdcage Walk to the Palace when I spotted a ceremony at Wellington Barracks. Not only were they changing the guard but they were changing the regiments of the guard. The Massive drill, parade to Buckingham Palace, and band, pipes and drums lasted until noon. Then I walked down Oxford street, had lunch, and continued walking through the city until 4:30. Took the tube home from Leichester Square.

A friend of Gwen's came over and we played a game of Scrabble. I lost the friendship of Gwen's friend when I messed up her chance to spell the word "quieter" on two double word squares. Total word value - 64 points. I lost horribly!

Dec 1 - London, England

After breakfast Mr Simmonds put my bike and luggage in the minivan and we headed north to London at 70 mph. Got into the city at 11 am. He drove me around the popular landmarks: Trafalgar Square, Piccadilly Circus, the Houses of Parliament, Number 10 Downing Street, Buckingham Palace, Orators Corner, Tower Bridge, Westminster Abbey and Cathedral, and Oxford Street. Got to Gwen Abbott's at 1:30 pm. Had lunch, then went to Madame Tussuad's, spending three hours there. Drove down Carnaby street on the way home. Had supper and went to the Baptist Church down the street where the preacher soundly cut the Catholic Church. Watched "The Citadel" and retired.

Gwen Abbott
28 Duke's Ave
Muswell Hill
London North 10, England

[Gwen Abbott was a teacher for the deaf whom my Aunt Roberta Strong had met on her exchange teaching assignment to England in 1951. She and my aunt remained close family friends until Gwen died in the 1980s]

Nov 30 - Uckfield, England

Did nothing the entire day but eat three meals, write two letters and read seven Reader's Digests. Immediately after breakfast I went down with Michael to the library and bank in Uckfield. Mr. and Mrs Simmonds went down to a large city on the south coast for Christmas Shopping.

After dinner, a friend picked up Mike and I in his minivan and we went down to Brighton on the sea for a night of bowling with some of Mike's scout friends. Met some exchange students from Boston there. I managed a score of 105 by the end of the second round. They were having problems with the pin-setting machinery.

Nov 29 - Uckfield, England

Awoke at 8:30. Had breakfast with the family. Packed up, leaving my tent, sleeping bag and unnecessary clothing here. Left in a bad mist. Mr. Voller drove me out of town 10 miles. I started off through the wet, narrow, winding and hilly English country roads. At 2 pm I arrived in Uckfield. Went to Michael's house - he wasn't home. The people across the street took me in until Mrs Simmons came in. Had dinner, when Michael, his 15 year old sister and father came home. Went to Mike's Ranger Scout meeting a few miles out of town. Got to sleep late.

Mileage: Folkestone to Uckfield 80 km

[At the 1967 World Jamboree in Coeur d'Alene, Idaho, the scouts had a big "get acquainted" game. Each Scout had a card with one of the letters in "Friendship." Each scout took his card and matched up with other scouts to spell the word. Michael Simmonds was was the "D" on my card]

Michael Simmonds
4 Claremont Rise
Uckfield, Sussex

Nov 28 - Folkestone, England

Slept late. First hearty breakfast of bacon, eggs, toast, in five months. Went down to the post office to buy some aerogramms. Went back to write letters. AFter lunch I went downtown, bought a Reader's Digest and map of southeast England. On the way back, I darted out on a bicycle into a truck. I made it out of his way but his sudden stop casued the motor scooter following him to run into him and broke his headlight and windshield. I went to the police station an hour later and made a statement. Went out to Clair's far to pick er up where she was taking care of her pony. Dinner, washed and retired.

Haircut .50
Map .50
Reader's Digest .50

Nov 27 - Folkestone, England

Slept late. At 9 am I started cleaning up the bike. At 11 am I went down to the docks. I couldn't get my French Francs turned into Pounds Sterling so I cashed a traveler's check in the English currency. Left at 1 pm to Dover, arrived at 2:30 pm. Cycled to Folkestone, and arrived at the Voller's at 4 pm. After dinner, Mr Voller took me with him to pick up Susan. Afterward we went to a pub by the sea. Had some fish and chips, returned home.

Andy Voller
58 Pavilion Road
Folkestone, Kent, England

Nov 26 - Boulogne, France

Awoke in the still dark at 7:30. After breakfast I packed and left the Gasty's home. Went first to "Gare North," the train station for northbound departures. I locked up my luggage, bought my ticket, and checked my bicycle. Then I returned to Montemartre, strolled through the area, then took the subway to St Michel's. As I was preparing to return to the railway station, I notice my ticket was missing. Being the same small size as a subway ticket, I could have mistakenly thrown it away.

In a panic, I returned to the station, and frantically retraced my hundreds of steps, searching the ground through the thousands of discarded subway tickets. Thank God, I found it at the souvenir shop in front of Sacre Coeur. I left Paris at 2:27 and arrived in Boulogne at 5:45. Found the auto ferries closed so I hurriedly bought some food and found the youth hostel. After my delicious cold dinner I wrote and retired.

Train Ticket: Paris to Boulogne $6.00

Nov 25 - Paris, France

After breakfast I set out on foot. Went first to St Michel's. Walked through the student quarter. Then by way of the Opera to Champs Elysee. Took the Metro to the de la Flechere's for lunch. After noon I saw more of the Opera area.

Returned to de la Flechere's for letters left there. Returned to Gasty's, walking through St Michel's, the City, the North Village, and Montemarte. Said goodbye to Paris and returned to Gasty's just in time for dinner. Retired after watching a 1949 American film.

Perfumes: 6.50
Canoe Cologne 5.00
Poster - Map 2.20

Nov 24 - Paris, France

After breakfast took the Metro to the home of the de la Flechere's. Went to 11 am mass at Les Invalides, where Napoleon lies. Had lunch with the family and went to the Louvre. Spent three hours there, mostly in the art museum. Returned to Gasty's by way of Montemartre. Dinner and TV. Retired late.

Nov 23 - Paris, France

After breakfast at Gerald's, I set out on bicycle. From 9 am until 1 pm I cycled through the streets of Paris, traveling down every street and boulevard of any size. I picked up my mail at American Express, and had lunch with Gerald. After lunch he took me up to Montemarte, the artist colony on the hill where the Basillica of the Sacred Heart (Sacre Coeur) overlooks Paris.

We took the Metro downtown and walked through the Latin quarter. He showed me the faculty of Sorbonne, where the student riots occurred in May. After dinner with the Gasty's I went with Gerard and his girl to a student dance at the House of Norway at the student union. Got to bed at 2 am.

Gerard Gasty
12 Rue du Baigneur
Paris 18e

Letter home written from Paris, Nov 23, 1968

Dear Folks,

I arrived in Paris last night on the train and am staying here four nights with a boy I met in Germany. He's a student at the university near Versailles. I picked up your mail at the American Express office today. Cashed the check ok. I received the tickets back to Dallas. I thought he have me pay the bill here. He sent it to you however, so I have about at $150 surplus, and I'll pay you when I return.

With the Franc about to be devalued, I'll wait until I leave Paris to buy my gifts. Everything will be cheaper. Today I was cycling around Paris. I was in front of the Palais de l'Elysee off Champs Elysees and there were hundreds of policemen. I found out later that the Prime Minister was arriving to confer with De Gaulle on the latest problems.

The snow melted while I was in Lyon, but I took the train to Paris anyway to hae ample time to see England. It's now already the Christmas season here, and downtown Paris is packed with early Christmas shoppers. All the street decorations are out, and the sight is breathtaking for a small-town kid. I circled the Tour d'Eiffel, but I'll save the .40 ascent to the top for a better day next visit. Tomorrow I'll attend 10 o'clock mass at Notre Dame, then visit the Louvre, Versailles, and the Gardens of Luxembourg.

Monday I'll go out on foot window-looking. The airline agencies along Champs Elysees are 21st Century in design, and the shops downtown are fascinating. Then I'll stroll the Latin Quarter looking at the numerous book stores.

This is roughly my remaining itinerary:

16 Geneva
17 Annecy
18 Chambery
19 Lyon
20 Lyon
21 Chalon sur Saone
22-25 Paris
26,27 Folkestone, England
28, 29 Uckfield
30, 1,2,3 London
4,5 Slough, Bucks
6,7,8 Great Yarmouth
9 London
10 Folkestone
11,12 Tourcoing, France
13,14 Brussels
15-17 Genk
18 Luxembourg

I could spend a month here and never stop moving. There's too much to see and too little time. As it is I'm up at 6 am and down at midnight, and on my feet all day. One day of my schedule would take you a week to recover from!

Au Revoir,

Michel

Nov 22 - Paris, France

Just as I wrote down the Day number, "88," I remembered the sunny afternoon I wrote down "Day 1." I sure didn't think I'd get this far with this crazy venture. Mrs. Peten picked me up at the youth hostel at 9:15, took me home, served me a quick breakfast, rushed me to the bank to cash a traveller's check, ran me to the station, got my tickets and saw me off. All the time acting like her house was on fire and I was taking up her time. Got the 10:28 train (late as usual) to Paris.

Train $12.40

Nov 21 - Chalon sur Saone, France

After breakfast and goodbyes I returned to the railroad station. The train didn't leave until 1:30 so I walked around Lyon for several hours. Arrived in Chalon sur Saone at 3 pm. Went to the address I had. After waiting for three hours, the wife came home. She took me to the youth hostel. Later, after a make-shift supper, the husband called inviting me to their house for awhile. He picked me up and I stayed there two hours. There's a Greek from South Africa here also at the youth hostel.

Train $3.50
Supper $1.00

Christian Peten - de la Forte
"Bellevue" rue Jules Chevier
Chalon s/Saone

Nov 20 - Lyon, France

After breakfast with Rene and his roommate I went with them to morning classes. First was optics in physics, then an analytical algebra course and a problem solving course. Had lunch in the cafe with each of Rene's friends contributing from their plates to make a meal for me. Did nothing that afternoon but read. It was too cold and too far to go into town. A London pea-soup fog has descended. It should be snowing again in the morning, although the snows of the last three days have melted. Had dinner in the same style as lunch. Retired early.

No expenses - No mileage

Nov 19 - Lyon, France

After a strange breakfast of beef steak, bread and Coca-Cola, I took the 11 am train to Chaloz and Lyon. Arrived at the Lyon station at 1:30 but had to wait two hours for my bike to show up. I was understandably mad and to top it off they lost the pump. It took me another hour of cycling through rain to reach the Institut National des Sciences Appliquées de Lyon (INSA) where Rene Bonaz arrived at 6 pm. Had dinner in the dorm after unsuccessfully trying to slip through the cafe line with another girl's ticket. Retired after several hours of conversation with the guys on the floor.

Train 4.00
Post 11 letters 2.00

Nov 18 - Chambery, France

After breakfast I cycled into Annecy and took the 11 am train to Aix-Les-Bains and into Chambery at 12:30. Went to Rene’s home. Found his mom and brother at home. He’s studying in Lyon. Went downtown after a lunch. Walked around the old city in the thickly falling snow. Wrote until dinner. Retired

Train 1.50
Postcards of Chambery .80

Rene Bonaz
Ecole Du Stade
73 Chambery, France

[Rene Bonaz was one of the scouts I met at the World Jamboree in 1967 in Idaho. Below is a letter I wrote to my parents from Chambery]

Dear Folks,

I started out writing with a French typewriter but it was like typing with your hands shifted one key over. I’m in Chambery (Pronounced: Shawm-bay-ree) now. Mr Bonaz just got home from work with a stack of mail for me. A letter from Lt Mahary, Joe Richard, Barbers, Val, Susan, and three from home.

I thought I’d cleaned up in Geneva with seven letters but this is great. I just finished a typical French dinner: French bread, wine, sausage and cheese. Mr. and Mrs Bonaz have two boys. Rene is in Lyon at the University and the other 15 year old boy is here. They speak no English, but the boy can flip a fast dictionary. I just read your letter about this being good for glove buying. Mr Bonaz tells me Grenoble is the home of the industry. I’ll see if I can pick up some tomorrow.

It started snowing just after I called home. When I woke up the next morning, Geneva was under half a foot of snow. I hadn’t cycled in snow before, so I tried the 25 miles to Annecy. I nearly froze solid. The gears, spokes, chain, gearshift, and brakes iced up, even while moving.

Ice filled the teeth of the gear sprockets, froze, and the chain would slide over the teeth without catching. Today I took the train into Chambery. Since Lyon is on the way to Paree I’ll take the train to the University, stay with Rene two nights, then train into Paris. I’ll spend at least three nights there, then onto the English island. Unless the weather clears, I’ll leave the bike in Folkestone, and hitch hike through England to save money and energy.

I don’t think I mentioned it yet. In Kandersteg I met an American cyclist from Pennsylvania. We cycled and took the train up to Zermatt, and then took a cog train up the Monte Rosa where we could get some fine shots of the Matterhorn. It was gorgeous weather. He camped out on top to get a sunrise shot of the horn. I left him and cycled down the Rhone valley to Sion, Aigle, Morges, and Geneva.

I meant for you to share your letters with the Barbers. I’m also asking Boots to share hers with the Zayats. I’m busy enough writing to five Nishimuta’s and five Strongs.

Dad, you mentioned the bike getting worn down. It’s me that’s getting worn out! With a new chain, tires, tape and oil, she’ll be as good as new.

I followed the election all the way. On the reverse of a Paul McClung column (in the newspaper my father sent me) was a story where (Senator Mike) Monroney was quoted as saying: “There is no doubt in my mind we’re rolling up a far bigger majority in the U.S. Senate race than has been seen in a long time.” Personally, I was strongly for Nixon, and I’ll tell you all about it when I return.

Just as I opened the letter, that postcard from Oklahoma fell out. The family spent about 30 minutes admiring it. The family in Morges has chosen etchings and engravings of old European towns and mountains to decorate their house. I’m just fascinated by them. They give the room an old, antique mood. I bought some post-card reproductions of some of the popular etchings. A good genuine etching costs about $25.00.

I really spent too much on myself before thinking about gifts for the family. So now I can only afford about $25 for the gifts for the family. I can’t afford gloves and gifts.

I know the kids would much rather have toys than gloves, but I don’t know what they want. Stephen’s interested in stamps and models, that’s all I know. Switzerland and Germany are the homes of railroad models. For around $2,000, I can get a genuine working model of the grand St Bernard Railway tunnel in HO scale. Again, tell the relatives I don’t want any clothes. Just magazines: Time, Newsweek, Reader’s Digest, National Geographic, maybe even Interplay. (It’s not a sex magazine, it’s a chronicle on American-Europe economic and political news). I read it in Sion, it’s great.

I’m going to owe so much when I get back I’m only going to afford one decent pair of clothes, and I want to hand-pick it myself. My room isn’t going to fit me when I return. I’ve raised the saddle three times on the bike. My pants are stretching when I sit down. I have to stoop in some doorways. So my room is the first target of urban renewal.

When Mr Bonaz received your letters, he couldn’t figure out what the “c/o” in “Mike c/o Rene” meant. He took the problem to a leading English teacher who had never seen it. It really worried him.

Remember, every stamp you buy is helping to finance the Nixon administration.

I just remembered, my stamps are supporting the De Gaulle administration!

Love, Mike

Nov 17 - Annecy, France

Awoke to find Geneva under four inches of snow. I packed up and left at 10 am. It was tedius and slow moving.The bike froze over, I froze. I got to Annecy cold, wet, and tired. The address I had, no one was home, but I was invited to a nearby house. Had some beer, bread, cheese and rice. Went to bed in a room that was as cold as the outside snow.

Mileage: Geneva to Annecy 43 km

Nov 16 - Geneva Switzerland

After breakfast I packed up and left at 9 am in a very cold wind. However it was behind me and I arrived in Geneva at 11 am. Went to the American Express, got my mail and sat down and read for an hour. Went to the Kuffers, had lunch and called home at 2 pm. It was 7 am in the morning in Oklahoma. But for $10 I heard everyone. Alain took me out in the car and we saw Geneva, The fountain, the University, the old town, John Calvin’s Cathedral, the World Health Organization building, International Red Cross, the European Atomic Research Complex, and the new Geneva Airport. After dinner, retired.

Mileage: Morges to Geneva 59 km.

Alain Therry Kuffer
Route de Vandoeuvres 74
Chouilly, Geneve

Nov 15 - Morges, Switzerland

Went downtown with Mrs Wittlin after breakfast. Toured the small village but it was freezing cold. A north wind bringing wither with it kept up. Returned at 11 am. Had lunch with Mr and Mrs Wittlin, Tom and Monica. Took the train into Lausanne at 2 pm. There Marc Muret showed me the town. Returned to Morges at 5:30, had dinner with the family. I was presented with a Swiss Calendar for my birthday. I finally came out on top in the second round of "Concentration" with Moni and Tom. Mr and Mrs went to a ball in Montreux. Wrote and retired.

Book 1.25
Notebook .25
Picture cards .30

Nov 14 - Morges, Switzerland

After breakfast, I packed up, locked the door, dropped the key in the post box, and walked outside. I remembered I left my coat inside. After a bad half hour I had it back and was on through the warm mist to Castle Chillon. Stayed there an hour, touring the famous Castle. Arrived in Morges about 2 pm. After a cold rain had just started. Had lunch at the Wittlin's talked with the Mrs., wrote and read. Retired after dinner.

Mileage: Aigle to Morges 54 km

[The prisoner of Chillon is a poem written by Lord Byron in 1816, telling the story of a Genovois monk, François Bonivard, who was imprisoned from 1532 to 1536. The stark contrast between the imprisonment of the cold cell and the freedom dreamed of by the beautiful views of the mountains and lake beyond must have been beyond torture. Here is the opening of the poem...

Eternal Spirit of the chainless Mind!
Brightest in dungeons, Liberty! thou art,
For there in thy habitation is the heart
The heart which love of thee alone can bind;
And when thy sons to fetters are consign'd -
To fetters, and the damp vault's dayless gloom
Their country conquers with their martyrdom,
And Freedom's fame finds wings on every wind.
Chillon! thy prison is a holy place,
And thy sad floor an altar - for t'was trod
Until his very steps have left a trace
Worn, as if thy cold pavement were a sod
By Bonnivard! May none those marks efface!
For they appeal from tyrrany to God.]

Nov 13 - Aigle, Switzerland

Left the Digier's after an early breakfast. Cycled in the shadows of the mountains to Martigny. Bought a Time magazine and read it to pass time. Started off to Aigle. My legs were terribly sore due to the lack of cycling lately. Arrived in Aigle at 1:30 pm. Jean Wirz, Biology teacher at the Gymnasia, met me at the Gare (Train Station) at 3 pm. We went up the Tour d'ai and watched the sun set in the mountinas. After dinner, I wrote and retired.

Mileage: Sion to Aigle 57 km

Nov 12 - Sion, Switzerland

Left immediately after breakfast for the Val d'Herens. Steep climbing immediately. 425 meters up to Vex, only 1 km from Sion. The rest was generally level. Where they were working on the road I had to walk, sometimes carry the bike. I arrived in Les Hauderes, cycled down the one street, and had a chocolate bar. Left for the downhill run of 927 meters, taking pictures occasionally. Arrived in Sion at 1 pm. Had lunch, then read old Newsweeks and wrote. After Dinner I showed them my Oklahoma collectibles. Mr. and Mrs Digier went to a party. I read and wrote until 10 pm.

Mileage Sion - Les Hauderes - Sion 64 km

Nov 11 - Sion, Switzerland

Awoke about 8 am. The humidity within the tent turned to ice inside the tent. When I ruse up it came snowing down on me. We had breakfast on a bench in front of the church with a fine view of the Matterhorn. At 10:30 we took the train up to Gornergrat. Took some pictures and admired the enormous expanses of rock covered with new snow. Warren decided to stay on top and get a picture of the horn at sunrise so I went down and packed up. Left Zermatt on the tiny mud road down to Visp. It took me three hours to get to Visp and I got to Sion at dark. Went to Major Digier's home and had dinner. Wrote and retired.

Mileage Zermatt to Sion: 80 km

Food 1.00
Train 5.00
Postcards .75

[I'm not sure how I met Major Digier, but it could have been a connection to my hometown in Lawton-Ft Sill Oklahoma. The Army's Artillery and Missile Center was located there, and in the 1960's there were extensive exchanges of officers from Allied countries who came to Ft Sill for training. We hosted many of them in our home.]

Nov 10 - Zermatt, Switzerland

After breakfast we walked up to lake Oeschinensee and took some pictures. Warren walked along the shore for two miles to get some good shots. We started down and followed the chairlift down. Took the 5 pm train through the Lotschburg Tunnel after dinner on the loading dock. We got into Goppenstein at dark and cycled down and into Visp. His light went out halfway down and our brakes were earing thin by the time we reached bottom. Took the 7:10 train up to Zermatt. Camped out under the stars in an empty camping spot.

Train 5.00
Train 1.25
Food 2.00

Mileage: 20 km

Nov 9 - Kandersteg, Switzerland

[Photo taken by P. Baldwin]

Arose and took the front wheel to a bike shop. Walked around Kandersteg. Walked by the Scout Chalet, which is now closed, and by the river Kander through forest land. The sky is white with cirrus clouds, and the mountains are dressed in gowns of white snow and blue ice.

Had lunch at the side of the Hotel National. Warren arrived on the train from Lucarno. I got my bike wheel. We cleaned up our bikes, then bought some food and had a feast up in our room at the youth hostel. He eats his tuna fish with a stamped bike wrench. Without my can opener, he would have opened the can with a screwdriver and his shoe.

Bike 2.00
YH 1.00
Lunch and Dinner 1.50

Nov 8 - Spiez, Switzerland

After packing and breakfast, I cycled to the Sager residence. Ali's mother had some gifts for me. I showed her my collectibles from Oklahoma and then left in a light mist for Spiez. On arriving I tried to fix the wheel but it looks like I'll need a new one. Waited around for three hours at the train station. Left for Kandersteg at 5 pm. Arrived at 6:30, quite dark. Picked up the front end of the bike and dragged it to the youth hostel. Warren Havens, a cyclist I was to meet here, hasn't shown up.

Thun to Spiez - 10 km

Train $2.00
Hostel $1.00

Nov 7 - Bern, Switzerland

After breakfast I left for Bern. Cycling through meadows and forests reminded me of the days in Sweden. I bought a scout shirt at the materials supply and went to the scout office. The Federal commissioner wasn't in but I sat in the office and read the newspaper. Went to the bear pits before leaving. On the return trip I badly bent the front wheel when I ran into a curb. Went to Dr. Statter's. Read the War of the Worlds and the newspaper. Had dinner of goulash and wine. I showed them my collectibles, which includes patches, and Indian beaded rosettas from Oklahoma. Dr. and I walked around town, for his health, not mine. Cycled home. Got to bed at midnight.

Thun - Bern - Thun 52 km

Dinner 1.10

Nov 6 - Thun, Switzerland

Had breakfast in the hotel cafe and left Interlaken. It was a clear day. As I turned a corner I saw before me miles away the Frutigen mountains blazing in the early morning sunlight. I cycled along the Thuner See for 22 km, arriving in Thun at 11 am. Went to the address I had. Cleaned the bike and went downtown.

Today's Herald Tribune doesn't have the results [of the election]. Read and wrote until dark. At 6:40 the Air Force Radio News service carried Nixon's acceptance speech. Went over to Dr. Statter's at 7 pm. Read until he arrived, had dinner, then went to a movie. Took a short walk afterward. Went home for tea.

Mileage: Interlaken to Thun 22 km
Expenses: Newspaper .25
Gloves 7.00

Nov 5 - Interlaken, Switzerland

After breakfast, Mr. Agostini left for work. I followed right afterward. Cycled to Interlaken along the Brienzer See, stopping only to put on my thick wool socks as a replacement for gloves. Heavy clouds obscured everything. It didn't rain but the mist was heavy. Went to the Drei Schewizer Hotel. Had a big lunch of soup, french fries, steak, broccoli, pudding and beer on the house, since the owner is hosting me. Tonight, went out for a beer with the Italian waiter. Bought a new ski jacket.

Piredda Antonio
Via Verdi 10
Thiesi, Sassari, Italy

Carabiners 4.60
Pen .10
Coat 9.20
Postcards .25

Mileage: Meiringin to Interlaken 31 km

Nov 4 - Meiringen, Switzerland

After breakfast I left in a cool downpour, cycled along the lake and then south to Giswil by the Sarner See. Through the mist and fog I could see the silhouette of giant mountains. Got the noon train up to Brunig, where I got off and coasted, freezing, to the Agostini residence in Meiringen. Had lunch and read that afternoon. After dinner he fixed me up with an address in Interlaken. I pray the clouds lift so I can see the Eiger, Monch, and Jungrau peaks.

Train 1.00
Candy .25

Mileage: Luzern to Meiringin 40 km

Nov 3 - Lucerne, Switzerland

After breakfast we went to church down the street. Except for the language, the service was identical to our Catholic service. The church was new, spacious and modern in design. After lunch I went to the Transportation Museum where I spent four hours browsing through bicycles, cars, trains, ships, airplanes, telephones, etc. Afterward I walked to the Hermitage Hotel, where Hans' mother works at the mini-golf. We had dinner with Susie, and across the way we could see the lights of Lucerne reflected in the sea. Took the bus home, wrote and retired.

Museum .25
Bus .20
Candy .50

Nov 2 - Lucerne, Switzerland

As I set out to Fluelen it started raining. I got my bike on the small boat and we left Fluelen at 12:12. Tugged through the green waters of the Lake, with rain falling outside. Changed boats at Brunnen, and I left my ski jacket on the small boat. Nobody's perfect!

Arrived in Luzern at 5 pm, rain still falling. Checked in at Mr. Birnstiel's house, left a number. I went back to the station and called it. Got another number. After an hour I got through to Hans Peter Tschupp, who invited me home. That night we went to a concert at the Kunsthaus, on the shore of Lake Lucerne.

[The concert was Ludwig van Beethoven's Ouverture zum Trauerspiel, and the Mass in C Minor op 86. The director was Eduard Muri, with Solists Josefine Hocher, Elanor-Jans-Ulmi, Peter Sigrist, and Eduard Stocker. I remember how much I enjoyed the concert, and felt I was royalty. Earlier in the day, losing my jacket, and being in the rain, I remember I was feeling a lot more like a peasant! Years later, while stationed in England, I would return here, and remember it as one of the most inspiring evenings of my four month trip]

Expenses: Boat $2.00
Candy .25

Nov 1 - Shattdorf, Switzerland

After breakfast we went to church. There is only one church in this village of all Catholics. Everybody was looking around to see who wasn't there, as Robert explained. After lunch we slept. I read and wrote a bit. That evening Robert's brother came over. He has a wife, a four year old girl and infant boy. We had snacks and watched TV. I showed them my Boy Scout patches. The next morning he brought me a Swiss neckerchief and many patches.

No expenses - no mileage

Oct 31 - Schattdorf, Switzerland

Awoke just before I was blown off the mountain. Coasted down the valley with a very strong wind behind me. Arrived in Schattdorf at noon. Mrs Gisler took me in. I had some food and then Robert's brother came by. He speaks English so I got my message out. Wrote and read all afternoon. Robert came home at 7:30, we went out for a drink that night.

Mileage: Andermatt to Schattdorf 40 km

Expenses .25

Ambros Gisler-Aschwanden
z.a. Schurzenhaus
6467 Schattdorf Uri
Switzerland

Oct 30 - Goschenen, Switzerland

After breakfast I finished some letters and reading the National Geographics. I left Dr. Seiler's after 11. Loaded my bike on the train and left Chur at 11:37. Climbed up the beautiful young Rhine to Disintis, where I had a two hour layover. Left at 3:40 on the narrow gauge rail and we climbed high over the Oberalp Pass and pulled down into Andermatt at 5:30. It was too late to cycle on to Shattdorf so I tried the youth hostel in Goschenen and found it was closed. So I put up off the road outside of town. A strong wind blew up that night and continued on the next day.

[The Oberalp Pass marks the eastern border of the Uri Canton of Switzerland. This is the home of the legendary William Tell.]

Train expenses 15 SF

Oct 29 - Liechtenstein

Wrote and read after breakfast until lunch. Then set out toward Liechtenstein. The sky was covered with dark clouds this morning, the first since Vienna. It started raining just before arriving in this tiny country. Across the Rhine river in a single-lane wooden covered bridge and I was in the mountain principality. Drove through Vaduz and partway up to Triesenburg. The sun poked its head out of the thick rain clouds ever so often. Cycled through Balzers on the South end. AFter dinner I went back up to the Youth Hostel to check for mail. Found none but talked with two English boys and an American cyclist from Pennsylvania. We're going to meet in Kandersteg on the 8th for some mountain climbing. Wrote and read. Retired late.

[Liechtenstein is situated in the Upper Rhine valley of the European Alps. The entire western border of Liechtenstein is formed by the river. Measured north to south, the country is only about 24 km (15 mi) long. In its eastern portion, Liechtenstein rises to higher altitudes; its highest point, the Grauspitz, is 2,599 m (8,527 ft)]

Mileage: Chur - Liechtenstein - Chur 81 km

Expenses .25

Oct 28 - Chur, Switzerland

Had breakfast of bread and butter, honey, chocolate. Indulged myself in Rolf Seiler's fine collection of National Geographic magazines. After lunch of creamed potatoes, calves tongue, and peas, I started catching up in my writing. Continued throughout the night. Dinner of cheese, bread and butter, raisin cake, oatmeal fruit dish. A fellow law student who just graduated from Geneva came over this evening.

Stamps 7.50 SF
Stationairy 3.65 SF

$2.55

[Letter I wrote from Chur on Oct 28, 1968 to home]

Dear Folks,

I’m now in Chur, Switzerland and this crazy tzpewriter has the z where the y should be. I’m in the home of Dr. Wolf Seiler, his wife, their 13 zr. Old son and 7 zr. Old daughter in the middle of this beautiful citz. Dr. Seiler is the Scoutchief for the Canton of the Grisons, the capitol of which is Chur. (Pronounced like Coor). I’ve got mz own room on the top floor of a nice apartments with a beautiful view of the surrounding mountains.

After pushing, walking, czcyling, and climbing the Ofen pass 2149 meters, and the Julier pass 2284 meters, I gave in to the urge of self preservation and took the train for the first time since mz bike broke down in Germany. Our friends in Morges couldn’t help me out with addresses, but the Swiss Scout Association did and now I’ve got warm beds and hot meals throught the countrz. I’ll use the monez saved to take the train through Switzerland.

For some reason the good Lord has switched to my side and the weather in this beautiful country is equally beautiful. Instead of freeying rain and snow which is normal for this time of the year, each day the warm sun comes out and one can see the majestic alps in all their splendor. I never believed that any place in the world could be as beautiful as the postcard pictures taken of it. But in Swiyerland there is no such thing as an unbeautiful view. If this great weather keeps up I’ll do some climbing (without the bicycle) at Kandersteg, the international Scout Hut.

I failed to find anz mail for me at Trieste, Italy. I don’t know why, but if you sent any it will be returned in 30 days. Although I have no definite, day to day schedule from here on out, write me next at Chambery, France. I’ll be there Nov 17 so get the mail off plenty before that.

The address is: Rene Bonaz
Ecole du Stade
73, Chambery, France

Don’t write me at Geneva since it’s so close to Chambery.

And now a word about finances.I’ve kept to my 2 dollar a day budget on food and housing, but I’ve had so many unexpected costs come up that I’m now down to a starvation budget, common to many European student travelers. Right now I have 240.00 dollars left, with 60 days left. The return trip will cost about 230.00 so I have 10 dollars plus what I get out of the bike to last me 60 days, plus free meals and lodging at many places. I could probablz get 80 dollars for the bike, so I have about 1.50 per day for the remainder. However, I would like to keep the bike. Not only because I plan to continue biking back home, but it’s one of the best in the world, and also has a lot of sweet memories attached to it. It might make a great conversation piece with I’m old and gray. To bring it home would mean I’d need about 80 dollars more. So what do you think. Do you want to see the world famous bicycle for the tune of 80 bucks or should I try to sell it in Luxembourg?

Mr Seiler was digging out of his old National Geographics for an article on Oklahoma and did you know that issue of May 1957 had a big article on the Wichita Mountains Refuge? It’s real neat to be in Switzerland reading about home instead of being home reading about Switzerland. For Christmas if any relatives want to know what I want it’s subscriptions to National Geographic, Time magazine, and Reader’s Digest. Being awaz from the daily newspaper and TV has given me a new interest in news and geography. The November issue of Geographic has an article on a 16-year old boy who circled the world alone on a sailboat. It seems that his gripes to his tape recorder are the same as mine are to my logbook.

I’m staying here three nights. Tomorrow I’m going to Liechtenstein without my luggage. I’ll just cycle up there, look around, have lunch, and come back. It’s only 30 miles from Chur on the Rhine river. Then the next day I’ll take out for Lucerne on the train.

I had a job offer at a swank hotel in Bolzano, Italy, but declined because I don’t have the time. I’m anxious to get back to work at the club and rid my debts so I can plot my next great adventure, which I’m sure will be hitching through Southern Europe, up to Moscow, through Russia in 7 days on the Trans-Siberian, from Russia to Japan by steamer. And I hope you can get me some more information on the exchange. Even if it doesn’t pull through I’m going anyway.

St Moritz was mz first encounter with a genuine resort town. A loaf of bread cost me 30 cents, compared to 9 cents in Italy. The zouth hostel was closed and the cheapest hotel was 4 dollars so I roughed it on a bench in the vacant camping site. They probably would have been around to collect their money for that too, if it hadn’t been so cold. On top of the Julier pass one old Swiss man admired my strength of will power to travel alone for five months. It is bad, but I don’t have much other choice.

I’ve got 10 other letters to write so I’ll close for now. I’ll send zou a postcard from the top of the Matterhorn.

Love, Mike

Oct 27 - Chur, Switzerland

On awakening the scene was white. I muttered, "O God, it couldn't have" and sure enough it hadn't. It was only the crystal whiteness of the morning frost that at first resembled snow. At noon I was off over the Julien Pass. The climbing was too rugged and I decided to take the train at Tiefencastel. Met two English boys having breakfast on the edge of a sparkling mountain lake. They were traveling by station wagon. Got into Tiefencastle after a lovely drop of 1200 meters at 4 pm. Got the 5 pm train to Chur. The terrain we passed was breathtaking, but it was dark as we got into Chur. Had trouble getting my bike out. Arrived at the Seiler residence about 8 pm. Good bath, retired.

Train 9.20 SF

Mileage: St Moritz to Tiefencastle 49 km

Julien Pass 2287 meters.