Bought some bread and jam at Koper. Set out riding along the shores of the Meditteranean. Passed high over the waster as the road clung to cliffs and climbed upward. Long and continuous cycling to Venice. Watched the sun turn into a firery red mass of heat and melt into the horizon.
An hour later I was on the bridge leading to the city of bridges. The colorful city was reflected in the waters turning the landscape and seascape into a myriad of colors. Met a boy from Dublin at the boat dock, after having checked my luggage and bike at a garage. Got to the youth hostel and then went across the channel to a pizzaria for my first real Italian pizza.
Mileage: Koper to Venice 177 km
American Express 2.00
Bread and jam .15
Boats .20
Supper 1.35
Hostel .75
Stamps 1.65
Met Gerardo Ponemuns
Avenida Jose Antonio
Primo De Rivera 761
Barcelona
Just before I slept the boy under my bunk invited me to spend the night with him at his house and he would give me a ride. Had breakfast with Tea and went down with her to school. Went to coffee with some of her friends and then her boyfriend took me out of town in his car. On returning had lunch with Tea downtown. Then we went 40 km toward Zagreb to attend to some business of Tea and her boyfriend.
At 6:30 the guys were ready. We ate dinner in the student cafe, rounded up some others and when we left Ljubljana at 7:30 there were nine of us, 1 bicycle and 1 amp in the large bus-van. It was quite a memorable trip, bouncing over Yugoslavian mountain roads at tremendous speeds, losing rubber at every corner. Within 15 km of Koper the accelerator cable broke so we rode it in with one steering and one pulling the throttle.
Lunch .80
Supper .12
Cookies .08
Pavlin Martin
Prisonjna Pot 1
Novo Mesto
Slovenia, Jugoslavia
Had bread and jam for breakfast. The clothes weren't dry so I had to wait until noon before leaving. Had a good meal of potatoes, steak, salad and coffee before leaving Celje. Cycled hard and fast to get to Ljubljana before dark. Arrived at 4:30. Went to Tea's dorm but she wasn't in. Waited awhile and asked some others where I could sleep tonight. One boy invited me to sleep in his room. We walked around downtown, the largest city in Yugoslavia, before dinner.
A good package of French Fries costs 8 cents. We had a beer downtown for 10 cents and then went to the cafeteria. There two very long and thick lines, but Martin took me up to the front. That's where the line seemed to form. For 9 cents we had a piece of dark bread, an Italian salad, a big plate of potato and hamburger mash, and a cup of tea. As we were leaving I noticed a bar in the student union. I asked him what the minimum age for drinking was. He impressed upon me that there wasn't an age limit on liquor or beer by buying me a shot of vodka for 12 cents. With hot meals for 9 cents and drinks at 12 cents I could break even in this country. The dorm I'm in tonight cost me nothing. Watched TV and tried to see Tea before retiring but she's still out.
Mileage: Celje to Ljubljana 75 km.
No expenses
Awoke, had breakfast, took my time leaving. The 64 km today took about five hours. When it comes to climbing mountains, these Yugoslavs are no hold's barred. They go straight up the damn things! I didn't think I was seeing straight when I was this 18% grade sign. But the road went straight up, and down, and up again, 10%, 12%, 14% for 20 miles. The steepest hills I ever laid eyes on. Got to Celje and my friend didn't get my postcard so she's not here. But I am enjoying the hospitality of her mother and aunt.
The Yugoslavs, the friendliest people I have met, have a custom of serving drinks to all their guests. So today I had 2 glasses of a syrup-like fire water that made my nose smoke. Had chicken, french fries, rice and coffee for dinner. The coffee is made by pouring finely ground coffee in sugared boiling water. The coffee cup holds about two shot's worth of this stuff. When you drink the coffee you actually eat it, the grinds being so small that they don't settle at the bottom.
My first impression of the Yugoslavian countryside, its people, cities, housing and farms, was the lack of beauty. The people are obviously poor. They dress poorly, are dirty and the houses reflect the people in them. The sad part, however, is that many improvements could be made, at little or no cost, to improved the looks of the houses, streets, roadsides, etc, but the people obviously don't care what it looks like.
It's a far difference from the neat and tidy Swedes and Danes, where flowers spring everywhere and even the poorer districts were repaired.
However poorly clothed and housed many Yugoslavs are, I want to emphasize that they are the friendliest and most cheerful people I have seen yet. More important than material possessions, Mostly important in this world is how we treat our brothers. These are helpful and friendly people to all.
One man I passed on bicycle kept talking to me so I said I was from the U.S. When I said America, he opened his eyes and stated in awe "America?" He kept repeating that word in reverence as to him it must be a far-off place. I guess it is to me too right now.
Mileage: Maribor to Celje 61 km
No Expenses!
Petrin Tea
Kajuhova 10
Celje
[In Germany I met a 23-year old female student who invited me to come visit her in Maribor, Yugsoslavia, and her sister's family in Ljubljana. It was not a large detour to come through the area, but I did not know that a visa was required. I entered the country with my bicycle in the back of a truck, and ended up in trouble when it came time to exit the country.
Yugoslavia had separated from the Soviet bloc in 1961, establishing itself with the non-alligned movement. Dictator Josip Tito was in control in 1968, but the country was poor. The province of Slovenia, with the capital at Ljubljana, fronted Austria on the north and Italy on the West. As I travelled into Yugoslavia, the differences from Germany and Austria were striking. Diesel locomotives were replaced by steam locomotives. No power lines, billboards, or advertising of any kind was evident. Cars were rare, and people were poorly dressed in peasant clothing. Even the overhead electric lines were missing. No signs of industry could be seen in the country, only farming. The entire experience seemed like a return to the 1920s.]
Arose at the first light of day. Had strawberry jelly and the remainder of the bread. Started out of town. A guy in a car without signaling or looking stopped and suddenly pulled into a right-hand parking place, cutting into my path and I smashed into him. I hope it doesn't mess up the front wheel too much. I've had enough of spoke problems.
Picked up a ride with some truck drivers to the Yugoslavia border. Continued on through ten miles of no-man's land to Maribor. Arrived at 11 am. Went to the address I had but they weren't home. I asked next door and they invited me in to eat. The Zopancic's arrived. Went downtown with the husband. Watched TV, read Reader's Digest and talked all night.
Mileage: Graz to Maribor 30 km
Drink .25
Janeta Zupanic
Frankolovska 23
Maribor
Left Krieglach in a heavy mist. Nice downhill cycling all the way to Bruck, where I had lunch and the mist lifted. Continued cycling downhill but with the sun in my eyes to Graz. Spokes started falling out so I had the back wheel re-spoked with heavier ones. Walked around town and picked up the bike at 6 pm. Sacked out in the town park on a bench. I didn't have much privacy, though. At midnight the park was completely filled with lovers. Nice weather this night.
Krieglach to Graz: 85 km
Time Magazine .50
Bike 4.50
Food 1.30
I awoke with some apprehension this morning, knowing that today might very well be the longest day. Today I must climb my first mountain pass.
I left Vienna early, perhaps 7:30 without breakfast. The added weight of my camping equipment and boots could be felt but I left in a hurry. As the bells tolled on this cloudy Sunday morning I could see the dark shadows of the Austrian Alps, previously hidden by the buildings of the city, but now etched in grey across a dark purple sky. Arrived in Wiener Neustadt at 10:30. As I pulled out of town I passed a farm where the hay in the open air shelter had exploded into flames, igniting the nearby wooden barn and threatening the farmer's house and a school, all adjoining. Quite a crowd gathered to watch.
Set out again, rising through green forests of pine to the actual mountains. A boy cyclist from Pottschach accompanied me for several miles before reaching the town of Gloggnitz. Here the adventure started. For eight km, over 20 or 30 switchbacks, I arose to the Semmering Pass at 985 meters, without a rest. I didn't stop pedaling one second the entire time, and when I reached the top I had good reason to be jubilant.
I bought a beer and had my lunch on a bench as tourists swarmed around. One man couldn't get over the fact that I was the only one on a bicycle for miles around. Rode easy for the next stretch to Krieglach. Checked in at the hostel and took a nap. Wrote before retiring.
Vienna to Krieglach: 116 km
Hostel 12 AS
Beer 7 AS
Awoke early and started to set out on bike. Bought some food at the grocery and went back to the hostel. Read "Europe on $5 a day" and had lunch. Wrote letters all afternoon and had dinner. Had some cookies and a beer before retiring.
Picked up mail at the American Express after a 10 mile ride through torrents of rain and got my sleeping bag, tent, and boots from the West Bahnhoff.
Expenses:
Food 28.90 AS
Hostel 19 AS
$2.00
[This is an Aerogramme which I wrote in Vienna to my family in Lawton. I seem to be responding to questions they asked earlier]
Oct 12, 1968
Vienna
Dear Family,
I'm now sitting in the Vienna youth hostel next to a large wall-window with the sun pouring in. I woke up this morning, my second in Vienna, and went downtown to check for mail at the American Express office. It was raining terribly, and I had to bicycle almost five miles through the rain to reach the downtown area. I notice the letter had to be returned for additional postage. If it had come tomorrow, Sunday, they would have been closed and would have returned it after 30 days. Please get the mail here plenty early.
I'm sure that my excitement in seeing Yvonne passed through thousands of miles of space to reach you, and cause you to think about them also. Col Quinnett is Sgt Furtado's commanding officer. Yvonne is 16, they have boys 12 and 9. That's all I know of.
I am now at the halfway point of my travels in distance, but not time. Vienna, compared to the small number of cities I have seen, is the greatest. I would study in this city if I did not want to go to the AF Academy. I spent all day yesterday browsing through the downtown. The shops carry everything money can buy. The restaurants are libraries, with volumes of dishes. The cathedrals, Parliament, the Opera House, the University, are buildings of more beautiful design than I have ever seen. This to me is the city of cities. Where men can contemplate, relax, study, and live in peace.
I only know that this Yugoslavian girl is about 23 and is a student at the Univeristy in Maribor. She speaks good English and was travelling with a French boy when I met them in Germany. I will also visit her sister who is married and has a family.
When I go to Japan, if I go, I would like to hitch-hike through Europe to ??, then take the Trans-Siberian across to Japan. That is the route all the Japanese are taking coming to see Europe. I have taked with many Japanese students. It is a cheap that way as it is to fly from San Francisco, and of course, at the same time I am exploring the wealth of the Russian expanse. Hitch-hiking is not dangerous. It is an accepted way of travel in Europe and North Africa. Many girls from the U.S, Canada and England hitch-hike through Europe unescorted. I met a boy from Chicago who has travelled five months through North Africa with only the lothes on his back and a piece of plastic with which he covers himself at night.
In Istanbul the ones who are broke sell blood to the hospital for $7 a half-liter. That can last them for 5,000 miles. At every hostel I find boys and grils looking for traveling companions, but not on bike. It's terribly lonesome cycling alone. Next time it will be hitch-hiking, with company.
Morges is a city in Switzerland between Lausanne and Geneva on Lake Lausanne. "CH" is the international car sticker letters for Switzerland.
I'll be sending you a final itinerary of my trip soon, to the last day. Please get my mail in to the American Express early.
Love, Mike
[Postcard I sent to my brother James]
Dear James, This is a picture of the Danube River which I cycled next to for about 100 miles. I hope you're getting a paper route soon and start earning money for future traveling. You can accomplish anything if you really want to. Once you start traveling you'll never want to stop. We can travel through Japan together if you start saving up for it.
Mike
[Postcard I sent to my brother Stephen]
Dear Stephen, Today I walked about 20 miles through the capitol of Austria. It's as big as Oklahoma City, but it's all like downtown instead of houses like we live in. I have had only one flat tire after cycling 1,300 miles. When I come home we will go bicycling together.
Mike
[Postcard I sent to my brother Gregory]
Dear Gregory, I hope you got the bicycle tires and now have a bicycle that works. In this country more people drive bicycles than cars. If you are a good bicycler you can come to Europe with me next time. Get some books from the Library about Switzerland. That is where I am going next.
Mike
Set out early for downtown. Walked a good distance and then jumped on a tram. Walked up the downtown, saw the gorgeous but expensive shops, the exciting ring street with the airline companies and travel agencies. Ate lunch just in front of the opera. Had dinner up the street from St. Stephen's Platz. Took the tram back to the hostel and listed to a girl from Boston strumming the guitar. Had a discussion about the difficulties of mastering certain languages with two boys from England.
Postcards 37.50 Austrian Shillings (AS)
Candy 4
Lunch 19.50
Candy 6.50
Dinner 32
Tram 10
Hostel 32
Total $5.20
Awoke and left early. The two boys from Vienna took thier train back home and I set out through the not well travelled path of highway 226. Most of today's cycling was on cobblestone as these roads are quite old. Left the beautiful Danau valley and entered flat country all the way to St. Andra. Climbed over a bit of mountain pass and found Vienna at last just before noon. Went to the youth hostel and had lunch. Full up there so I set out for a guest house 10 km away. Found out it too was full and set out over cobblestone for the third youth hostel 10 km away. Washed up and had supper. Wrote and went to bed.
Mileage: Krems to Vienna 81 km
Food 1.30
Hostel .85
