Oct 28 - Chur, Switzerland

Had breakfast of bread and butter, honey, chocolate. Indulged myself in Rolf Seiler's fine collection of National Geographic magazines. After lunch of creamed potatoes, calves tongue, and peas, I started catching up in my writing. Continued throughout the night. Dinner of cheese, bread and butter, raisin cake, oatmeal fruit dish. A fellow law student who just graduated from Geneva came over this evening.

Stamps 7.50 SF
Stationairy 3.65 SF

$2.55

[Letter I wrote from Chur on Oct 28, 1968 to home]

Dear Folks,

I’m now in Chur, Switzerland and this crazy tzpewriter has the z where the y should be. I’m in the home of Dr. Wolf Seiler, his wife, their 13 zr. Old son and 7 zr. Old daughter in the middle of this beautiful citz. Dr. Seiler is the Scoutchief for the Canton of the Grisons, the capitol of which is Chur. (Pronounced like Coor). I’ve got mz own room on the top floor of a nice apartments with a beautiful view of the surrounding mountains.

After pushing, walking, czcyling, and climbing the Ofen pass 2149 meters, and the Julier pass 2284 meters, I gave in to the urge of self preservation and took the train for the first time since mz bike broke down in Germany. Our friends in Morges couldn’t help me out with addresses, but the Swiss Scout Association did and now I’ve got warm beds and hot meals throught the countrz. I’ll use the monez saved to take the train through Switzerland.

For some reason the good Lord has switched to my side and the weather in this beautiful country is equally beautiful. Instead of freeying rain and snow which is normal for this time of the year, each day the warm sun comes out and one can see the majestic alps in all their splendor. I never believed that any place in the world could be as beautiful as the postcard pictures taken of it. But in Swiyerland there is no such thing as an unbeautiful view. If this great weather keeps up I’ll do some climbing (without the bicycle) at Kandersteg, the international Scout Hut.

I failed to find anz mail for me at Trieste, Italy. I don’t know why, but if you sent any it will be returned in 30 days. Although I have no definite, day to day schedule from here on out, write me next at Chambery, France. I’ll be there Nov 17 so get the mail off plenty before that.

The address is: Rene Bonaz
Ecole du Stade
73, Chambery, France

Don’t write me at Geneva since it’s so close to Chambery.

And now a word about finances.I’ve kept to my 2 dollar a day budget on food and housing, but I’ve had so many unexpected costs come up that I’m now down to a starvation budget, common to many European student travelers. Right now I have 240.00 dollars left, with 60 days left. The return trip will cost about 230.00 so I have 10 dollars plus what I get out of the bike to last me 60 days, plus free meals and lodging at many places. I could probablz get 80 dollars for the bike, so I have about 1.50 per day for the remainder. However, I would like to keep the bike. Not only because I plan to continue biking back home, but it’s one of the best in the world, and also has a lot of sweet memories attached to it. It might make a great conversation piece with I’m old and gray. To bring it home would mean I’d need about 80 dollars more. So what do you think. Do you want to see the world famous bicycle for the tune of 80 bucks or should I try to sell it in Luxembourg?

Mr Seiler was digging out of his old National Geographics for an article on Oklahoma and did you know that issue of May 1957 had a big article on the Wichita Mountains Refuge? It’s real neat to be in Switzerland reading about home instead of being home reading about Switzerland. For Christmas if any relatives want to know what I want it’s subscriptions to National Geographic, Time magazine, and Reader’s Digest. Being awaz from the daily newspaper and TV has given me a new interest in news and geography. The November issue of Geographic has an article on a 16-year old boy who circled the world alone on a sailboat. It seems that his gripes to his tape recorder are the same as mine are to my logbook.

I’m staying here three nights. Tomorrow I’m going to Liechtenstein without my luggage. I’ll just cycle up there, look around, have lunch, and come back. It’s only 30 miles from Chur on the Rhine river. Then the next day I’ll take out for Lucerne on the train.

I had a job offer at a swank hotel in Bolzano, Italy, but declined because I don’t have the time. I’m anxious to get back to work at the club and rid my debts so I can plot my next great adventure, which I’m sure will be hitching through Southern Europe, up to Moscow, through Russia in 7 days on the Trans-Siberian, from Russia to Japan by steamer. And I hope you can get me some more information on the exchange. Even if it doesn’t pull through I’m going anyway.

St Moritz was mz first encounter with a genuine resort town. A loaf of bread cost me 30 cents, compared to 9 cents in Italy. The zouth hostel was closed and the cheapest hotel was 4 dollars so I roughed it on a bench in the vacant camping site. They probably would have been around to collect their money for that too, if it hadn’t been so cold. On top of the Julier pass one old Swiss man admired my strength of will power to travel alone for five months. It is bad, but I don’t have much other choice.

I’ve got 10 other letters to write so I’ll close for now. I’ll send zou a postcard from the top of the Matterhorn.

Love, Mike

Oct 27 - Chur, Switzerland

On awakening the scene was white. I muttered, "O God, it couldn't have" and sure enough it hadn't. It was only the crystal whiteness of the morning frost that at first resembled snow. At noon I was off over the Julien Pass. The climbing was too rugged and I decided to take the train at Tiefencastel. Met two English boys having breakfast on the edge of a sparkling mountain lake. They were traveling by station wagon. Got into Tiefencastle after a lovely drop of 1200 meters at 4 pm. Got the 5 pm train to Chur. The terrain we passed was breathtaking, but it was dark as we got into Chur. Had trouble getting my bike out. Arrived at the Seiler residence about 8 pm. Good bath, retired.

Train 9.20 SF

Mileage: St Moritz to Tiefencastle 49 km

Julien Pass 2287 meters.

Oct 26 - St Moritz, Switzerland

Picked up a letter from our scout friends in Morges that had chased me from Trieste to Santa Maria to Zernez. So now I've got an address in Sion and Morges. Took out for St Moritz, climbing steadily in the chill of the still frozen morning. It's just now sinking in that I'm in beautiful Switzerland, as in every direction I look I see the solid Alps with there fleece of soft snow. Took my time time getating to St. Moritz. Stopped for lunch just outside of St. Moritz in a grove of Cottonwoods. The falling seeds of soft cotton resembled softly falling snow but the heat of the sun reassured me it was only an illusion. Got a Playboy and Time magazine at a newsstand and went down to the Lakeside to read. Found out the youth hostel was closed just as the cold was forcing me in so just as the sun went down I stretched out on a bench in a deserted camping site.

Mileage: Zernez to St. Moritz 32 km

[For historical accuracy, I feel a need to describe the contents of the Playboy issue of Nov 68. I was primarily reading it to get insight into the upcoming Presidential election!
Interview with Don Rickles
Playmate of the Month Paige Young
Article, Robert Crichton - "The Real Secret of Santa Vittoria"
Satire by Jules Feiffer "The Decision"
Article by Robert Sherrill "Instant Electorate"
Memoir by W.D. Jones "Riding with Bonnie and Clyde"
Fiction by Michael Lawrence "The Legacy"
Fiction by Jeffery Hudson "How does that make you feel?"
Fiction by J.P. Dunleavy "A Fair Festivity"
Future Living article: "Astropolis
The First Space Resort" by Krafft A. Ehricke
Travel, Skiing from A to V by Len Deighton
Attire "Great Greatcoat" by Robert L. Green
Article "Personality by Prescription" by Ernest Haveman
"Mad Ave Unclad" a nude send-up of Madison Avenue Ads.]

Oct 25 - Zernez, Switzerland

Had breakfast with the family. Packed up and headed out. The high mountains blocked the sun for awhile, but as soon as it came out I had to change into my shorts. Very difficult cycling and pushing to conquer Offenpass. But when I saw the Swiss colors flying on top I cried for joy.

Had lunch on top and then did some fast coasting down into the beautiful national park. Cycled slowly through the unspoilt forests and mountains, and after a final fast fling, landed in Zernez at 2:30 pm. Took a nap in the warm sun and then checked into the youth hostel. Had supper, wrote and retired.

Climb to Offen Pass 2155 meters
Mileage Santa Maria to Zernez : 36 km 1260 m to 1474 m

milk .80
Candy 1.10

Oct 24 - Santa Maria, Switzerland

Awoke and left about 9 am. Hard cycling immediately. Had breakfast about 10 am when the sun had chased away most of the cold. Difficult cycling all day. Something's wrong with the back wheel. It's too difficult to move. Arrived in Santa Maria, beautiful Switzerland at 4 pm. Checked in at the old farmhouse youth hostel. Family of walkers from Lausanne joined me at the hostel. Invited me for dinner of soup, tea and sandwiches. Wrote and retired in the chilly hostel.

Hostel 2.80 Swiss Francs
Elevation 1,260 m
Mileage: Merano to Santa Maria 70 km

Oct 23 - Merano, Italy

Left the youth hostel after writing. Even when the sun was shining the air had a discomforting wintry chill to it. At high noon, exhaled air turns white. Cycled through the tempting, luscious fields of apples, grapes and pears. Bought a postcard and had some grapes in Ora, Italy. [Ora is my mother's first name] Arrived in Bolzano at noon. On to Merano, arriving at 2:30 pm.

Walked through the downtown area. Set up my tent in an apple orchard west of town. As I write with gloved hands the sun still dominates the cloudless sky. If it clouded up it could snow, but the sky has been cloudless and blue since leaving Austria. I haven't had a shower or washed my hair since Vienna. I hope I get into a home in Switzerland.

Mileage: Trento to Merano 83 km

Oct 22 - Letter Home

Dear Family

Sorry I have been so long in writing but was unable to find Aerograms in Yugoslavia or Italy and had trouble getting stationery. In addition I have been constantly moving night and day.

Well let me first describe Yugoslavia. It was a dream and a nightmare. I stayed in Maribor, just 40 miles from Austria, with the family of a sister of the girl I met in Germany. They live in a modern apartment building. Set among the poverty of the city it looked strange. However, they were quite well off. Next day I went on to Celje, the home of the girl (Petrin Tea). She was away at school so I stayed the night with her mother and aunt. Enjoying for another night the food and hospitality which characterizes Yugoslavia. The next day I set off gain through the beautiful mountains to Ljubljana, a large university town where Tea is at school (studying economics). I stayed in the dorm and saw the town and ate with her friends. A full hot meal in the student restaurant cost nine cents. Afterward we had a drink. My first vodka: 12 cents. Scotch, whiskey, brandy and hundreds of other drinks. The prices nine to 15 cents eaach. No wonder the Swedes, highest paid in Europe, vacation in Yugoslavia.

I regretted leqaving this incredibly low cost country, but loaded my bike in the Volkswagon bus of a friend, packed with six others and set off for a nighttime ride from Ljubljana to Trieste, Italy. Spent the night in Yugoslavia 20 km from Trieste with a student friend. Next day to Venice, Chapter 2.

WHen you're tired of the conventional, come to Venice. It's definately wild. The long trip from Trieste, 110 miles, forced me to get into Venice at 6 pm, long after the Sun had gone down. So I first saw colorfol Venice reflected in the warm Meditteranean Sea at night. I put my bike in a garage and took a boat to the youth hostel, with a new friend from Dublin. I had my first Italian pizza and wine. My first impression was that Joe Bianco [the owner of an Italian Restaurant in Lawton, Oklahoma] should come over here and show them how to make good pizza.

The next day - exploring beautiful Venice. It hasn't changed a bit in hundreds of years. We visited the old Duke Palace with some Indians from Kenya. That night, we listed to the bands play in San Marcos Platz. I say "we" because I'm seldom alone touring the popular cities.

The next morning off to Bassano. At the foot of the Italian Alps, in just above freezing weather, I spread my sleeping bag with my bare nose sticking into the chilly, starry night. From there I have come to Trento, further up in the mountains. Tomorrow Merano, the next day Switzerland.

Motivated by the fact that I am now on a near starvation budget, I have obtained addresses in Switzerland through the Scout Association (Right now, before going further, please call Butch Smith [my travel agent in Lawton] and tell him to send an Air Bahama return ticket to the address below. If he has already sent them somewhere, they will be returned, but send them here before November 20: American Express, 11 Rue Scribe, Paris France. Again I would like to return from Luxembourg to Nassau about five days before Christmas. Tell him this)

While I was in Venice I realized the gross folly of my attempting to see 14 countries in 120 days. I previously failed to see the majesty and culture contained in the large cities, a masterpiece of the country, and containing everything every other city in that country has. I hope to spend much time in Paris, London, Amerstam and Brussells soaking up the majesty those cities hold.

Incidently, In Ljubljana I had quite a long discussion with a Yugoslavian youth who is a communist and atheist. The effect of this talk in my undertanding of the world is expressed in an article I have penned "When East meets West."

The cycling is improving my physical condition each day. My old limits of 40-80 km (25-50 miles) were replaced when I did 177 km (110 miles) from Trieste to Venice. I had to raise my saddle, so my legs are growing noticeably. I can climb any grade less than 10 percent without a rest or stop. I could race up Mt Scott [this is located near my hometown]. Perhaps I will take up cycling as a hobby on returning. Certainly I'm much more interested in it as a family and social issue.

Coming from Yugoslavia to Italy was quite a shock. The prices are fantastic! And that's all that's fantastic about Italy. The children are rude, the auto drivers are like children on bicycles, and the stores are poorly stocked. Food prices are about 2/3 higher than in America, with taxes everywhere. I'll be glad to get out of this place.

The first thing I want when I get home is a good Italian meal at Bianco's with pizza, ravioli, spaghetti, garlic bread and wine.

I'm unsure of my dates, so please send all mail to American Express, 7 Rude du Mont Blanc, Case Postale 243, Geneva, Switzerland. I'll be there November 15. I'll send a complete and final list before I get there.

Love,

Mike

Oct 22 - Trento, Italy

On awakening, I first saw in good light the majestic Italian Alps. It was freezing cold, so I dressed quickly and set out. The cycling was difficult. I think not physically as it was mentally, but after five hours cycling through the valley of the giants I arrived in Trento, almost as the sun went down. I went to the youth hostel and had dinner with a boy from Tokyo. It seems they all live in Tokyo! Wrote my letters to the Swiss Cantonal secretaries, home, and to Susan. Retired Late.

Mileage: Bassano to Trento 83 km

Oct 21 - Bassano, Italy

After breakfast we packed up and went to San Marcos Platz and finished proofreading his reports. Got the number 5 boat back to the garage. Started out at 1 pm. Flat, good riding into Bassano. Arrived in town at 5:30 but the sun had already gone down. Had cookies and pear juice on a little park with a commanding view of the mountains. I will enter them tomorrow. The sky darkened and the stars became indistinguishable from the lights of the houses on the mountain. Retired in a pasture by the side of the road.

Mileage: Venice to Bassano 87 km

Breakfast 460 L
Boat 100
Luggage 600
Fruit 150
Dinner 150
$2.20

Oct 20 - Venice, Italy

Awoke early. Gerrardo and a boy from Dublin and I set out with three Indians from Kenya. We found the Guggenheim collection not open so we went to San Marcos Platz. The beautiful and ancient buildings of Venice were surrounded by millions of visitors and pigeons. We took a look inside the church on the square during services, then took the lift up to a tower overlooking the city. Went through the Duke's Palace and had lunch on the Riva Degli Shiavoni. Went to the Danieli Royal Excelsior hotel to read and then walked to the station. Had coffee on the Grand Canal and picked up the luggage at the hostel and took it to the hotel. We unpacked and had dinner of pizza. Went to Santa Marco Piazza to listen to the night-time playing of the Italian bands. Retired late in a small hotel.

Lunch 500 Lira .80
Duke's Palace 150 .24
Boats 130 .21
Lift 200 .32
Magazines 600 1.00
1580 Lira at 625/Dollar

$2.50