Oct 31 - Schattdorf, Switzerland

Awoke just before I was blown off the mountain. Coasted down the valley with a very strong wind behind me. Arrived in Schattdorf at noon. Mrs Gisler took me in. I had some food and then Robert's brother came by. He speaks English so I got my message out. Wrote and read all afternoon. Robert came home at 7:30, we went out for a drink that night.

Mileage: Andermatt to Schattdorf 40 km

Expenses .25

Ambros Gisler-Aschwanden
z.a. Schurzenhaus
6467 Schattdorf Uri
Switzerland

Oct 30 - Goschenen, Switzerland

After breakfast I finished some letters and reading the National Geographics. I left Dr. Seiler's after 11. Loaded my bike on the train and left Chur at 11:37. Climbed up the beautiful young Rhine to Disintis, where I had a two hour layover. Left at 3:40 on the narrow gauge rail and we climbed high over the Oberalp Pass and pulled down into Andermatt at 5:30. It was too late to cycle on to Shattdorf so I tried the youth hostel in Goschenen and found it was closed. So I put up off the road outside of town. A strong wind blew up that night and continued on the next day.

[The Oberalp Pass marks the eastern border of the Uri Canton of Switzerland. This is the home of the legendary William Tell.]

Train expenses 15 SF

Oct 29 - Liechtenstein

Wrote and read after breakfast until lunch. Then set out toward Liechtenstein. The sky was covered with dark clouds this morning, the first since Vienna. It started raining just before arriving in this tiny country. Across the Rhine river in a single-lane wooden covered bridge and I was in the mountain principality. Drove through Vaduz and partway up to Triesenburg. The sun poked its head out of the thick rain clouds ever so often. Cycled through Balzers on the South end. AFter dinner I went back up to the Youth Hostel to check for mail. Found none but talked with two English boys and an American cyclist from Pennsylvania. We're going to meet in Kandersteg on the 8th for some mountain climbing. Wrote and read. Retired late.

[Liechtenstein is situated in the Upper Rhine valley of the European Alps. The entire western border of Liechtenstein is formed by the river. Measured north to south, the country is only about 24 km (15 mi) long. In its eastern portion, Liechtenstein rises to higher altitudes; its highest point, the Grauspitz, is 2,599 m (8,527 ft)]

Mileage: Chur - Liechtenstein - Chur 81 km

Expenses .25

Oct 28 - Chur, Switzerland

Had breakfast of bread and butter, honey, chocolate. Indulged myself in Rolf Seiler's fine collection of National Geographic magazines. After lunch of creamed potatoes, calves tongue, and peas, I started catching up in my writing. Continued throughout the night. Dinner of cheese, bread and butter, raisin cake, oatmeal fruit dish. A fellow law student who just graduated from Geneva came over this evening.

Stamps 7.50 SF
Stationairy 3.65 SF

$2.55

[Letter I wrote from Chur on Oct 28, 1968 to home]

Dear Folks,

I’m now in Chur, Switzerland and this crazy tzpewriter has the z where the y should be. I’m in the home of Dr. Wolf Seiler, his wife, their 13 zr. Old son and 7 zr. Old daughter in the middle of this beautiful citz. Dr. Seiler is the Scoutchief for the Canton of the Grisons, the capitol of which is Chur. (Pronounced like Coor). I’ve got mz own room on the top floor of a nice apartments with a beautiful view of the surrounding mountains.

After pushing, walking, czcyling, and climbing the Ofen pass 2149 meters, and the Julier pass 2284 meters, I gave in to the urge of self preservation and took the train for the first time since mz bike broke down in Germany. Our friends in Morges couldn’t help me out with addresses, but the Swiss Scout Association did and now I’ve got warm beds and hot meals throught the countrz. I’ll use the monez saved to take the train through Switzerland.

For some reason the good Lord has switched to my side and the weather in this beautiful country is equally beautiful. Instead of freeying rain and snow which is normal for this time of the year, each day the warm sun comes out and one can see the majestic alps in all their splendor. I never believed that any place in the world could be as beautiful as the postcard pictures taken of it. But in Swiyerland there is no such thing as an unbeautiful view. If this great weather keeps up I’ll do some climbing (without the bicycle) at Kandersteg, the international Scout Hut.

I failed to find anz mail for me at Trieste, Italy. I don’t know why, but if you sent any it will be returned in 30 days. Although I have no definite, day to day schedule from here on out, write me next at Chambery, France. I’ll be there Nov 17 so get the mail off plenty before that.

The address is: Rene Bonaz
Ecole du Stade
73, Chambery, France

Don’t write me at Geneva since it’s so close to Chambery.

And now a word about finances.I’ve kept to my 2 dollar a day budget on food and housing, but I’ve had so many unexpected costs come up that I’m now down to a starvation budget, common to many European student travelers. Right now I have 240.00 dollars left, with 60 days left. The return trip will cost about 230.00 so I have 10 dollars plus what I get out of the bike to last me 60 days, plus free meals and lodging at many places. I could probablz get 80 dollars for the bike, so I have about 1.50 per day for the remainder. However, I would like to keep the bike. Not only because I plan to continue biking back home, but it’s one of the best in the world, and also has a lot of sweet memories attached to it. It might make a great conversation piece with I’m old and gray. To bring it home would mean I’d need about 80 dollars more. So what do you think. Do you want to see the world famous bicycle for the tune of 80 bucks or should I try to sell it in Luxembourg?

Mr Seiler was digging out of his old National Geographics for an article on Oklahoma and did you know that issue of May 1957 had a big article on the Wichita Mountains Refuge? It’s real neat to be in Switzerland reading about home instead of being home reading about Switzerland. For Christmas if any relatives want to know what I want it’s subscriptions to National Geographic, Time magazine, and Reader’s Digest. Being awaz from the daily newspaper and TV has given me a new interest in news and geography. The November issue of Geographic has an article on a 16-year old boy who circled the world alone on a sailboat. It seems that his gripes to his tape recorder are the same as mine are to my logbook.

I’m staying here three nights. Tomorrow I’m going to Liechtenstein without my luggage. I’ll just cycle up there, look around, have lunch, and come back. It’s only 30 miles from Chur on the Rhine river. Then the next day I’ll take out for Lucerne on the train.

I had a job offer at a swank hotel in Bolzano, Italy, but declined because I don’t have the time. I’m anxious to get back to work at the club and rid my debts so I can plot my next great adventure, which I’m sure will be hitching through Southern Europe, up to Moscow, through Russia in 7 days on the Trans-Siberian, from Russia to Japan by steamer. And I hope you can get me some more information on the exchange. Even if it doesn’t pull through I’m going anyway.

St Moritz was mz first encounter with a genuine resort town. A loaf of bread cost me 30 cents, compared to 9 cents in Italy. The zouth hostel was closed and the cheapest hotel was 4 dollars so I roughed it on a bench in the vacant camping site. They probably would have been around to collect their money for that too, if it hadn’t been so cold. On top of the Julier pass one old Swiss man admired my strength of will power to travel alone for five months. It is bad, but I don’t have much other choice.

I’ve got 10 other letters to write so I’ll close for now. I’ll send zou a postcard from the top of the Matterhorn.

Love, Mike

Oct 27 - Chur, Switzerland

On awakening the scene was white. I muttered, "O God, it couldn't have" and sure enough it hadn't. It was only the crystal whiteness of the morning frost that at first resembled snow. At noon I was off over the Julien Pass. The climbing was too rugged and I decided to take the train at Tiefencastel. Met two English boys having breakfast on the edge of a sparkling mountain lake. They were traveling by station wagon. Got into Tiefencastle after a lovely drop of 1200 meters at 4 pm. Got the 5 pm train to Chur. The terrain we passed was breathtaking, but it was dark as we got into Chur. Had trouble getting my bike out. Arrived at the Seiler residence about 8 pm. Good bath, retired.

Train 9.20 SF

Mileage: St Moritz to Tiefencastle 49 km

Julien Pass 2287 meters.

Oct 26 - St Moritz, Switzerland

Picked up a letter from our scout friends in Morges that had chased me from Trieste to Santa Maria to Zernez. So now I've got an address in Sion and Morges. Took out for St Moritz, climbing steadily in the chill of the still frozen morning. It's just now sinking in that I'm in beautiful Switzerland, as in every direction I look I see the solid Alps with there fleece of soft snow. Took my time time getating to St. Moritz. Stopped for lunch just outside of St. Moritz in a grove of Cottonwoods. The falling seeds of soft cotton resembled softly falling snow but the heat of the sun reassured me it was only an illusion. Got a Playboy and Time magazine at a newsstand and went down to the Lakeside to read. Found out the youth hostel was closed just as the cold was forcing me in so just as the sun went down I stretched out on a bench in a deserted camping site.

Mileage: Zernez to St. Moritz 32 km

[For historical accuracy, I feel a need to describe the contents of the Playboy issue of Nov 68. I was primarily reading it to get insight into the upcoming Presidential election!
Interview with Don Rickles
Playmate of the Month Paige Young
Article, Robert Crichton - "The Real Secret of Santa Vittoria"
Satire by Jules Feiffer "The Decision"
Article by Robert Sherrill "Instant Electorate"
Memoir by W.D. Jones "Riding with Bonnie and Clyde"
Fiction by Michael Lawrence "The Legacy"
Fiction by Jeffery Hudson "How does that make you feel?"
Fiction by J.P. Dunleavy "A Fair Festivity"
Future Living article: "Astropolis
The First Space Resort" by Krafft A. Ehricke
Travel, Skiing from A to V by Len Deighton
Attire "Great Greatcoat" by Robert L. Green
Article "Personality by Prescription" by Ernest Haveman
"Mad Ave Unclad" a nude send-up of Madison Avenue Ads.]

Oct 25 - Zernez, Switzerland

Had breakfast with the family. Packed up and headed out. The high mountains blocked the sun for awhile, but as soon as it came out I had to change into my shorts. Very difficult cycling and pushing to conquer Offenpass. But when I saw the Swiss colors flying on top I cried for joy.

Had lunch on top and then did some fast coasting down into the beautiful national park. Cycled slowly through the unspoilt forests and mountains, and after a final fast fling, landed in Zernez at 2:30 pm. Took a nap in the warm sun and then checked into the youth hostel. Had supper, wrote and retired.

Climb to Offen Pass 2155 meters
Mileage Santa Maria to Zernez : 36 km 1260 m to 1474 m

milk .80
Candy 1.10

Oct 24 - Santa Maria, Switzerland

Awoke and left about 9 am. Hard cycling immediately. Had breakfast about 10 am when the sun had chased away most of the cold. Difficult cycling all day. Something's wrong with the back wheel. It's too difficult to move. Arrived in Santa Maria, beautiful Switzerland at 4 pm. Checked in at the old farmhouse youth hostel. Family of walkers from Lausanne joined me at the hostel. Invited me for dinner of soup, tea and sandwiches. Wrote and retired in the chilly hostel.

Hostel 2.80 Swiss Francs
Elevation 1,260 m
Mileage: Merano to Santa Maria 70 km

Oct 23 - Merano, Italy

Left the youth hostel after writing. Even when the sun was shining the air had a discomforting wintry chill to it. At high noon, exhaled air turns white. Cycled through the tempting, luscious fields of apples, grapes and pears. Bought a postcard and had some grapes in Ora, Italy. [Ora is my mother's first name] Arrived in Bolzano at noon. On to Merano, arriving at 2:30 pm.

Walked through the downtown area. Set up my tent in an apple orchard west of town. As I write with gloved hands the sun still dominates the cloudless sky. If it clouded up it could snow, but the sky has been cloudless and blue since leaving Austria. I haven't had a shower or washed my hair since Vienna. I hope I get into a home in Switzerland.

Mileage: Trento to Merano 83 km

Oct 22 - Letter Home

Dear Family

Sorry I have been so long in writing but was unable to find Aerograms in Yugoslavia or Italy and had trouble getting stationery. In addition I have been constantly moving night and day.

Well let me first describe Yugoslavia. It was a dream and a nightmare. I stayed in Maribor, just 40 miles from Austria, with the family of a sister of the girl I met in Germany. They live in a modern apartment building. Set among the poverty of the city it looked strange. However, they were quite well off. Next day I went on to Celje, the home of the girl (Petrin Tea). She was away at school so I stayed the night with her mother and aunt. Enjoying for another night the food and hospitality which characterizes Yugoslavia. The next day I set off gain through the beautiful mountains to Ljubljana, a large university town where Tea is at school (studying economics). I stayed in the dorm and saw the town and ate with her friends. A full hot meal in the student restaurant cost nine cents. Afterward we had a drink. My first vodka: 12 cents. Scotch, whiskey, brandy and hundreds of other drinks. The prices nine to 15 cents eaach. No wonder the Swedes, highest paid in Europe, vacation in Yugoslavia.

I regretted leqaving this incredibly low cost country, but loaded my bike in the Volkswagon bus of a friend, packed with six others and set off for a nighttime ride from Ljubljana to Trieste, Italy. Spent the night in Yugoslavia 20 km from Trieste with a student friend. Next day to Venice, Chapter 2.

WHen you're tired of the conventional, come to Venice. It's definately wild. The long trip from Trieste, 110 miles, forced me to get into Venice at 6 pm, long after the Sun had gone down. So I first saw colorfol Venice reflected in the warm Meditteranean Sea at night. I put my bike in a garage and took a boat to the youth hostel, with a new friend from Dublin. I had my first Italian pizza and wine. My first impression was that Joe Bianco [the owner of an Italian Restaurant in Lawton, Oklahoma] should come over here and show them how to make good pizza.

The next day - exploring beautiful Venice. It hasn't changed a bit in hundreds of years. We visited the old Duke Palace with some Indians from Kenya. That night, we listed to the bands play in San Marcos Platz. I say "we" because I'm seldom alone touring the popular cities.

The next morning off to Bassano. At the foot of the Italian Alps, in just above freezing weather, I spread my sleeping bag with my bare nose sticking into the chilly, starry night. From there I have come to Trento, further up in the mountains. Tomorrow Merano, the next day Switzerland.

Motivated by the fact that I am now on a near starvation budget, I have obtained addresses in Switzerland through the Scout Association (Right now, before going further, please call Butch Smith [my travel agent in Lawton] and tell him to send an Air Bahama return ticket to the address below. If he has already sent them somewhere, they will be returned, but send them here before November 20: American Express, 11 Rue Scribe, Paris France. Again I would like to return from Luxembourg to Nassau about five days before Christmas. Tell him this)

While I was in Venice I realized the gross folly of my attempting to see 14 countries in 120 days. I previously failed to see the majesty and culture contained in the large cities, a masterpiece of the country, and containing everything every other city in that country has. I hope to spend much time in Paris, London, Amerstam and Brussells soaking up the majesty those cities hold.

Incidently, In Ljubljana I had quite a long discussion with a Yugoslavian youth who is a communist and atheist. The effect of this talk in my undertanding of the world is expressed in an article I have penned "When East meets West."

The cycling is improving my physical condition each day. My old limits of 40-80 km (25-50 miles) were replaced when I did 177 km (110 miles) from Trieste to Venice. I had to raise my saddle, so my legs are growing noticeably. I can climb any grade less than 10 percent without a rest or stop. I could race up Mt Scott [this is located near my hometown]. Perhaps I will take up cycling as a hobby on returning. Certainly I'm much more interested in it as a family and social issue.

Coming from Yugoslavia to Italy was quite a shock. The prices are fantastic! And that's all that's fantastic about Italy. The children are rude, the auto drivers are like children on bicycles, and the stores are poorly stocked. Food prices are about 2/3 higher than in America, with taxes everywhere. I'll be glad to get out of this place.

The first thing I want when I get home is a good Italian meal at Bianco's with pizza, ravioli, spaghetti, garlic bread and wine.

I'm unsure of my dates, so please send all mail to American Express, 7 Rude du Mont Blanc, Case Postale 243, Geneva, Switzerland. I'll be there November 15. I'll send a complete and final list before I get there.

Love,

Mike

Oct 22 - Trento, Italy

On awakening, I first saw in good light the majestic Italian Alps. It was freezing cold, so I dressed quickly and set out. The cycling was difficult. I think not physically as it was mentally, but after five hours cycling through the valley of the giants I arrived in Trento, almost as the sun went down. I went to the youth hostel and had dinner with a boy from Tokyo. It seems they all live in Tokyo! Wrote my letters to the Swiss Cantonal secretaries, home, and to Susan. Retired Late.

Mileage: Bassano to Trento 83 km

Oct 21 - Bassano, Italy

After breakfast we packed up and went to San Marcos Platz and finished proofreading his reports. Got the number 5 boat back to the garage. Started out at 1 pm. Flat, good riding into Bassano. Arrived in town at 5:30 but the sun had already gone down. Had cookies and pear juice on a little park with a commanding view of the mountains. I will enter them tomorrow. The sky darkened and the stars became indistinguishable from the lights of the houses on the mountain. Retired in a pasture by the side of the road.

Mileage: Venice to Bassano 87 km

Breakfast 460 L
Boat 100
Luggage 600
Fruit 150
Dinner 150
$2.20

Oct 20 - Venice, Italy

Awoke early. Gerrardo and a boy from Dublin and I set out with three Indians from Kenya. We found the Guggenheim collection not open so we went to San Marcos Platz. The beautiful and ancient buildings of Venice were surrounded by millions of visitors and pigeons. We took a look inside the church on the square during services, then took the lift up to a tower overlooking the city. Went through the Duke's Palace and had lunch on the Riva Degli Shiavoni. Went to the Danieli Royal Excelsior hotel to read and then walked to the station. Had coffee on the Grand Canal and picked up the luggage at the hostel and took it to the hotel. We unpacked and had dinner of pizza. Went to Santa Marco Piazza to listen to the night-time playing of the Italian bands. Retired late in a small hotel.

Lunch 500 Lira .80
Duke's Palace 150 .24
Boats 130 .21
Lift 200 .32
Magazines 600 1.00
1580 Lira at 625/Dollar

$2.50

Oct 19 - Venice, Italy

Bought some bread and jam at Koper. Set out riding along the shores of the Meditteranean. Passed high over the waster as the road clung to cliffs and climbed upward. Long and continuous cycling to Venice. Watched the sun turn into a firery red mass of heat and melt into the horizon.

An hour later I was on the bridge leading to the city of bridges. The colorful city was reflected in the waters turning the landscape and seascape into a myriad of colors. Met a boy from Dublin at the boat dock, after having checked my luggage and bike at a garage. Got to the youth hostel and then went across the channel to a pizzaria for my first real Italian pizza.
Mileage: Koper to Venice 177 km

American Express 2.00
Bread and jam .15
Boats .20
Supper 1.35
Hostel .75
Stamps 1.65

Met Gerardo Ponemuns
Avenida Jose Antonio
Primo De Rivera 761
Barcelona

Oct 18 - Koper, Yugoslavia

Just before I slept the boy under my bunk invited me to spend the night with him at his house and he would give me a ride. Had breakfast with Tea and went down with her to school. Went to coffee with some of her friends and then her boyfriend took me out of town in his car. On returning had lunch with Tea downtown. Then we went 40 km toward Zagreb to attend to some business of Tea and her boyfriend.

At 6:30 the guys were ready. We ate dinner in the student cafe, rounded up some others and when we left Ljubljana at 7:30 there were nine of us, 1 bicycle and 1 amp in the large bus-van. It was quite a memorable trip, bouncing over Yugoslavian mountain roads at tremendous speeds, losing rubber at every corner. Within 15 km of Koper the accelerator cable broke so we rode it in with one steering and one pulling the throttle.

Lunch .80
Supper .12
Cookies .08

Pavlin Martin
Prisonjna Pot 1
Novo Mesto
Slovenia, Jugoslavia

Oct 17 - Ljubljana, Yugoslavia

Had bread and jam for breakfast. The clothes weren't dry so I had to wait until noon before leaving. Had a good meal of potatoes, steak, salad and coffee before leaving Celje. Cycled hard and fast to get to Ljubljana before dark. Arrived at 4:30. Went to Tea's dorm but she wasn't in. Waited awhile and asked some others where I could sleep tonight. One boy invited me to sleep in his room. We walked around downtown, the largest city in Yugoslavia, before dinner.

A good package of French Fries costs 8 cents. We had a beer downtown for 10 cents and then went to the cafeteria. There two very long and thick lines, but Martin took me up to the front. That's where the line seemed to form. For 9 cents we had a piece of dark bread, an Italian salad, a big plate of potato and hamburger mash, and a cup of tea. As we were leaving I noticed a bar in the student union. I asked him what the minimum age for drinking was. He impressed upon me that there wasn't an age limit on liquor or beer by buying me a shot of vodka for 12 cents. With hot meals for 9 cents and drinks at 12 cents I could break even in this country. The dorm I'm in tonight cost me nothing. Watched TV and tried to see Tea before retiring but she's still out.

Mileage: Celje to Ljubljana 75 km.

No expenses

Oct 16 - Celje, Yugoslavia

Awoke, had breakfast, took my time leaving. The 64 km today took about five hours. When it comes to climbing mountains, these Yugoslavs are no hold's barred. They go straight up the damn things! I didn't think I was seeing straight when I was this 18% grade sign. But the road went straight up, and down, and up again, 10%, 12%, 14% for 20 miles. The steepest hills I ever laid eyes on. Got to Celje and my friend didn't get my postcard so she's not here. But I am enjoying the hospitality of her mother and aunt.

The Yugoslavs, the friendliest people I have met, have a custom of serving drinks to all their guests. So today I had 2 glasses of a syrup-like fire water that made my nose smoke. Had chicken, french fries, rice and coffee for dinner. The coffee is made by pouring finely ground coffee in sugared boiling water. The coffee cup holds about two shot's worth of this stuff. When you drink the coffee you actually eat it, the grinds being so small that they don't settle at the bottom.

My first impression of the Yugoslavian countryside, its people, cities, housing and farms, was the lack of beauty. The people are obviously poor. They dress poorly, are dirty and the houses reflect the people in them. The sad part, however, is that many improvements could be made, at little or no cost, to improved the looks of the houses, streets, roadsides, etc, but the people obviously don't care what it looks like.

It's a far difference from the neat and tidy Swedes and Danes, where flowers spring everywhere and even the poorer districts were repaired.

However poorly clothed and housed many Yugoslavs are, I want to emphasize that they are the friendliest and most cheerful people I have seen yet. More important than material possessions, Mostly important in this world is how we treat our brothers. These are helpful and friendly people to all.

One man I passed on bicycle kept talking to me so I said I was from the U.S. When I said America, he opened his eyes and stated in awe "America?" He kept repeating that word in reverence as to him it must be a far-off place. I guess it is to me too right now.

Mileage: Maribor to Celje 61 km

No Expenses!

Petrin Tea
Kajuhova 10
Celje

Oct 15 - Maribor, Yugoslavia

[In Germany I met a 23-year old female student who invited me to come visit her in Maribor, Yugsoslavia, and her sister's family in Ljubljana. It was not a large detour to come through the area, but I did not know that a visa was required. I entered the country with my bicycle in the back of a truck, and ended up in trouble when it came time to exit the country.

Yugoslavia had separated from the Soviet bloc in 1961, establishing itself with the non-alligned movement. Dictator Josip Tito was in control in 1968, but the country was poor. The province of Slovenia, with the capital at Ljubljana, fronted Austria on the north and Italy on the West. As I travelled into Yugoslavia, the differences from Germany and Austria were striking. Diesel locomotives were replaced by steam locomotives. No power lines, billboards, or advertising of any kind was evident. Cars were rare, and people were poorly dressed in peasant clothing. Even the overhead electric lines were missing. No signs of industry could be seen in the country, only farming. The entire experience seemed like a return to the 1920s.]

Arose at the first light of day. Had strawberry jelly and the remainder of the bread. Started out of town. A guy in a car without signaling or looking stopped and suddenly pulled into a right-hand parking place, cutting into my path and I smashed into him. I hope it doesn't mess up the front wheel too much. I've had enough of spoke problems.

Picked up a ride with some truck drivers to the Yugoslavia border. Continued on through ten miles of no-man's land to Maribor. Arrived at 11 am. Went to the address I had but they weren't home. I asked next door and they invited me in to eat. The Zopancic's arrived. Went downtown with the husband. Watched TV, read Reader's Digest and talked all night.

Mileage: Graz to Maribor 30 km

Drink .25

Janeta Zupanic
Frankolovska 23
Maribor

Oct 14 - Graz, Austria

Left Krieglach in a heavy mist. Nice downhill cycling all the way to Bruck, where I had lunch and the mist lifted. Continued cycling downhill but with the sun in my eyes to Graz. Spokes started falling out so I had the back wheel re-spoked with heavier ones. Walked around town and picked up the bike at 6 pm. Sacked out in the town park on a bench. I didn't have much privacy, though. At midnight the park was completely filled with lovers. Nice weather this night.

Krieglach to Graz: 85 km
Time Magazine .50
Bike 4.50
Food 1.30

Oct 13 - Krieglach, Austria

I awoke with some apprehension this morning, knowing that today might very well be the longest day. Today I must climb my first mountain pass.

I left Vienna early, perhaps 7:30 without breakfast. The added weight of my camping equipment and boots could be felt but I left in a hurry. As the bells tolled on this cloudy Sunday morning I could see the dark shadows of the Austrian Alps, previously hidden by the buildings of the city, but now etched in grey across a dark purple sky. Arrived in Wiener Neustadt at 10:30. As I pulled out of town I passed a farm where the hay in the open air shelter had exploded into flames, igniting the nearby wooden barn and threatening the farmer's house and a school, all adjoining. Quite a crowd gathered to watch.

Set out again, rising through green forests of pine to the actual mountains. A boy cyclist from Pottschach accompanied me for several miles before reaching the town of Gloggnitz. Here the adventure started. For eight km, over 20 or 30 switchbacks, I arose to the Semmering Pass at 985 meters, without a rest. I didn't stop pedaling one second the entire time, and when I reached the top I had good reason to be jubilant.

I bought a beer and had my lunch on a bench as tourists swarmed around. One man couldn't get over the fact that I was the only one on a bicycle for miles around. Rode easy for the next stretch to Krieglach. Checked in at the hostel and took a nap. Wrote before retiring.

Vienna to Krieglach: 116 km

Hostel 12 AS
Beer 7 AS

Oct 12 - Vienna, Austria

Awoke early and started to set out on bike. Bought some food at the grocery and went back to the hostel. Read "Europe on $5 a day" and had lunch. Wrote letters all afternoon and had dinner. Had some cookies and a beer before retiring.

Picked up mail at the American Express after a 10 mile ride through torrents of rain and got my sleeping bag, tent, and boots from the West Bahnhoff.

Expenses:
Food 28.90 AS
Hostel 19 AS

$2.00

[This is an Aerogramme which I wrote in Vienna to my family in Lawton. I seem to be responding to questions they asked earlier]

Oct 12, 1968
Vienna

Dear Family,

I'm now sitting in the Vienna youth hostel next to a large wall-window with the sun pouring in. I woke up this morning, my second in Vienna, and went downtown to check for mail at the American Express office. It was raining terribly, and I had to bicycle almost five miles through the rain to reach the downtown area. I notice the letter had to be returned for additional postage. If it had come tomorrow, Sunday, they would have been closed and would have returned it after 30 days. Please get the mail here plenty early.

I'm sure that my excitement in seeing Yvonne passed through thousands of miles of space to reach you, and cause you to think about them also. Col Quinnett is Sgt Furtado's commanding officer. Yvonne is 16, they have boys 12 and 9. That's all I know of.

I am now at the halfway point of my travels in distance, but not time. Vienna, compared to the small number of cities I have seen, is the greatest. I would study in this city if I did not want to go to the AF Academy. I spent all day yesterday browsing through the downtown. The shops carry everything money can buy. The restaurants are libraries, with volumes of dishes. The cathedrals, Parliament, the Opera House, the University, are buildings of more beautiful design than I have ever seen. This to me is the city of cities. Where men can contemplate, relax, study, and live in peace.

I only know that this Yugoslavian girl is about 23 and is a student at the Univeristy in Maribor. She speaks good English and was travelling with a French boy when I met them in Germany. I will also visit her sister who is married and has a family.

When I go to Japan, if I go, I would like to hitch-hike through Europe to ??, then take the Trans-Siberian across to Japan. That is the route all the Japanese are taking coming to see Europe. I have taked with many Japanese students. It is a cheap that way as it is to fly from San Francisco, and of course, at the same time I am exploring the wealth of the Russian expanse. Hitch-hiking is not dangerous. It is an accepted way of travel in Europe and North Africa. Many girls from the U.S, Canada and England hitch-hike through Europe unescorted. I met a boy from Chicago who has travelled five months through North Africa with only the lothes on his back and a piece of plastic with which he covers himself at night.

In Istanbul the ones who are broke sell blood to the hospital for $7 a half-liter. That can last them for 5,000 miles. At every hostel I find boys and grils looking for traveling companions, but not on bike. It's terribly lonesome cycling alone. Next time it will be hitch-hiking, with company.

Morges is a city in Switzerland between Lausanne and Geneva on Lake Lausanne. "CH" is the international car sticker letters for Switzerland.

I'll be sending you a final itinerary of my trip soon, to the last day. Please get my mail in to the American Express early.

Love, Mike

[Postcard I sent to my brother James]

Dear James, This is a picture of the Danube River which I cycled next to for about 100 miles. I hope you're getting a paper route soon and start earning money for future traveling. You can accomplish anything if you really want to. Once you start traveling you'll never want to stop. We can travel through Japan together if you start saving up for it.

Mike

[Postcard I sent to my brother Stephen]

Dear Stephen, Today I walked about 20 miles through the capitol of Austria. It's as big as Oklahoma City, but it's all like downtown instead of houses like we live in. I have had only one flat tire after cycling 1,300 miles. When I come home we will go bicycling together.

Mike

[Postcard I sent to my brother Gregory]

Dear Gregory, I hope you got the bicycle tires and now have a bicycle that works. In this country more people drive bicycles than cars. If you are a good bicycler you can come to Europe with me next time. Get some books from the Library about Switzerland. That is where I am going next.

Mike

Oct 11 - Vienna, Austria

Set out early for downtown. Walked a good distance and then jumped on a tram. Walked up the downtown, saw the gorgeous but expensive shops, the exciting ring street with the airline companies and travel agencies. Ate lunch just in front of the opera. Had dinner up the street from St. Stephen's Platz. Took the tram back to the hostel and listed to a girl from Boston strumming the guitar. Had a discussion about the difficulties of mastering certain languages with two boys from England.

Postcards 37.50 Austrian Shillings (AS)
Candy 4
Lunch 19.50
Candy 6.50
Dinner 32
Tram 10
Hostel 32

Total $5.20

Oct 10 - Vienna, Austria

Awoke and left early. The two boys from Vienna took thier train back home and I set out through the not well travelled path of highway 226. Most of today's cycling was on cobblestone as these roads are quite old. Left the beautiful Danau valley and entered flat country all the way to St. Andra. Climbed over a bit of mountain pass and found Vienna at last just before noon. Went to the youth hostel and had lunch. Full up there so I set out for a guest house 10 km away. Found out it too was full and set out over cobblestone for the third youth hostel 10 km away. Washed up and had supper. Wrote and went to bed.

Mileage: Krems to Vienna 81 km

Food 1.30
Hostel .85

Oct 9 - Krems, Austria

Awoke and had four rolls and milk at the bakery nearby. Set out about 8:30. Cycled through the Danube valley all day. Had lunch on the river bank. Arrived in Krems at 4:30. Went downtown for a short while. Two boys from Vienna here at this hostel on their way home tomorrow. Had dinner and talked with them for awhile.

Mileage: Linz to Krems ad Donau 140km

Breakfast .35
Lunch .60
Hostel .60

Met Fumihiko Tokita
17 Kitame-machi Sendai City, Miyagi, Japan
Tel 23-9409

Oct 8 - Linz, Austria

Awoke and had breakfast. Left Vocklabruck at 8:30. A very thick fog obscured all vision unitl it lifted at Wels. The cycling was easy, but the mist froze to the hair on my legs and my eyelashes, making it very uncomfortable. It turned out to be a beautiful day. Arrived in Linz at 11:30. Left my baggage at the Youth Hostel and went strolling around downtown. Cycled about 4 km north of town in the hills. At this time of the year the mountains are splashed with gold and green trees wiating for the snow to whiten them. Bought some food, had dinner in my room. There's another cyclings from Egypt here and a young man from Prague, Czechoslovakia.

[On August 20, 1968, Warsaw Pact forces--including troops from Bulgaria, the German Democratic Republic (East Germany), Hungary, Poland, and the Soviet Union--invaded Czechoslovakia. Approximately 500,000 troops, mostly from the Soviet Union, poured across the borders in a blitzkrieg-like advance. At this time I was in Stockholm, Sweden. As I approached Vienna, I met more students and vacationers from Czechoslovakia who had been vacationing in the West prior to the invastion. Many of them were uncertain if they should return home.]

Mileage: Voclabruck to Linz 68 km

Breakfast .15
Hostel .35
Lunch .50
Donuts .15
Supper 1.15

Oct 7 - Vocklabruck, Austria

Awoke at 6:30, left in the chilly mistiness of the valley. Cycled through 30 km of Germany, the last and most beautiful trip. I could see the country in a different way, cycling at 7 in the morning. Children on their way to school, knapsacks on their backs. Women milking the cows, men off to an early start in the fields.

Arrived in Salzburg at 9 am. While the bike was in repair I walked through the city and had some food and took off again. Arrived in Vocklabruck at 3 pm after four hours of ups and downs. Went downtown for a stroll. Ate dinner and wrote.

Mileage: Traunstein to Vocklabruck 93 km

Bike 1.70
Aerograms 1.20
Lunch 1.00
Dinner .20
Hostel .35

I am in Austria now, and it is autumn. The autumn is the time when the royal trees turn their leaves into fountains of color, in preparation for their death as the white of winter comes. The Danau river is in such a state. Mountains of green and gold carpeting rise sharply from the swift river's banks to tower in the cloud's heights. I cycle through the vine-covered terraces of stone and soil. Autumn is the time of the grape harvest. I taste the sweet green grape and let its juices linger in my mouth. I can smell the souring grapes whose fermented juices will someday grace an expensive dinner. The old farmer drives his load of grapes into town while his heavy wife continues pulling the fruit and tossing it over her shoulder into the basket she carries on her back.

Early thoughts from a novice rider

[This was undated, but it was probably written early in my trip in Denmark or Northern Germany]

I have grown quite accustomed to sitting on the narrow, unsprung, stiff, leather saddle, with back hunched over, toes under straps, arms stiff, legs tight, the wind ruffling through my hair, for four or five hours a day. To anyone first attempting this position, myself included, it is an extremely uncomfortable position. I am unable to stand up and use the weight of my body on the pedals. All power must come from the upper calves. When the road is wet, the water and mud sling onto my face from the front tire, there being no fender. The rear wheel slings it onto my back.

I removed my socks, there being no use for them, with simply my jogging shoes covering my feet. Within an hour my leg was covered with mud up to my knees, dried mud with a sprinkling of sand. In this position I ride for hours without stopping, through forest and fields of wheat, past little old ladies and age-old men on antique bicycles, past children with full knapsacks on their way to school. Up hills and mountains, down into valleys I coast for miles without pedaling, watching the splashing hues merge into a kaleidoscope of color. I smell the burned wheat fields after they have been harvested, the cow manure from a friendly farm. The fresh air is sweetened by a million pines. Cars honk at me as they pass. A train runs clickety-clack over miles of track.

A song comes to mind...

This land is mine, God gave this land to me.
This brave, and ancient land to me.
And when the morning sun reveals her hills and plains,
Then I see a land where all men can run free.

Oct 6 - Traunstein, Germany

Awoke bright and early. Had breakfast in the youth hostel and set out. A fog had set in and it was cool this morning. I pulled the hood of my sweatshirt over my h ead and put on my gloves. As I lazily cycled through the path of leaves through town, the city of Munich awoke on this warm Sunday morning. I cycled through easy forests in the morning. I stopped for lunch in Wasserburg on the edge of the river. Church bells tolled my movement throughout the day. Arrived in Traunstein at 2:30 pm. Went to a soccer game right behind the youth hostel. Wrote letters on returning and retired. Tomorrow, Austria!

Mileage: Munich to Traunstein 103 km

Breakfast .30
Lunch .75
Football .50
Hostel .30

With the new lower gears I can go uphill sitting down. It's great!

Oct 5 - Munich, Germany

Awoke early and promptly dressed and went downtown. Wandered around for awhile, and when I found a bicycle shop I went back for the bike and had the gears exchanged for mountain use. Bought some ski pants and shoes. Went back to the youth hostel. Got some food just before the stores closed at 1 pm. Ate and wrote some letters. Read some more of "A Search for the Truth." After dinner of brotchen, salami and coffee, I went to bed.

Bike gear 6.20
Ski Pants 17.50
Lunch 1.15
Shoes 7.50
Dinner 1.15

$33.45

Oct 4 - Munich, Germany

Left Hawkey's residence after a good sleep and good breakfast. After four hours of mooth cycling I arrived in Augsburg at 1:30 pm. Went on to Munich. Checked out the address Alice gave me. THey were out of town so at 6 pm I ate and then started for the youth hostel. Arried and checked in at 7:30. This hostel can hold 600, and since I'm on the fifth floor, it must be full tonight. I'll stay here two nights and see the town.

Mileage: Ulm to Munich 150 km, 93 miles.

Wrench 2.50
Snacks .55
Hostel .40
Dinner 1.10

Oct 3 - Ulm, Germany

After breakfast left again in the mist and rain. After another grueling grind up and fun ride down arrived in GEislingen. Had a sandwich and started off again. Beautiful mountain country. Stopped for some lunch just before Ulm. In Ulm I wandered around for three hours looking for Hawkey's flat. At 4:30 found it. Ate dinner of brotchen and brockwurst. Wrote letters and retired.

Mileage: Scwabisch Gmund to Ulm 64 km

Lunch .25

Oct 2 - Schwabish Gmund, Germany

Awoke late, had french fries at the castle food shop and left Schwabisch Hall in the rain. Arrived in Schwabisch Gmund after four hours of grueling up and down cycling. Lazied around Brantley's (My friend from Ft Sill, Oklahoma, who's family was assigned to Germany) all afternoon. When I arrived the door was open but no one answered the bell. I went snooping in the rooms. I found Charles sleeping in bed. When I found him he looked like he had seen a ghost. After dinner we drove to Stuggart to pick up his sister Carolyne who missed her bus home from school. Looked over the maps before retiring.

Mileage: Schwabisch Hall to Schwabisch Gmund 47 km, 30 mi

French Fires .25
Snacks .30

Oct 1 - Schwabisch Hall, Germany

Awoke late. Had breakfast and left at 9:30. Fast, smooth riding into Heidelburg and Heilbronn. Then it started. The devil turned day into night. While climbing the steep road up to Lowenstein, the rain started. My toes and hands became numb with cold. My body was wet to the bones. The endless sucession of movoing my lges up and down turned into an automatic, non-thinking action. Five km outside of Michelsfeld--good news! A nine percent downhill run! For almost three miles in semi-darkness I became a hurtling form of flesh and steel on a wet road. I had to keep to the middle of the lane, since I didn't know what potholes the road might have on the edge. Rain, driving in my eyes, blinded me. Only my bright yellow raincoat protected me in the wet darkness.

I arrived in Schwabisch Hall at 6:10 pm. Tired, wet, cold, hungry, had a brockwurst and french fries right under the youth hostel. It's an extremely old castle. It was dark inside. No lights, no heat, no one in sight. Unloaded and took my stuff up. Found a room lighted on the 3rd floor. Two male bodies lay silent in bed, so I picked out a bunk and washed up. Read, retired.

Mileage: Weinheim to Schwabisch Hall 151 km

Breakfast .25
Maps .60
Hostel .30
Snacks .30
Dinner .60